Seems like a few people are having issues with the latest software update. I'm having a hard time with removing a lot of support. I've starting adding support structures to my models and running the prints without support. So far I've just been doing a .5mm rib in areas that I feel need support. Much easier to cut off with a knife vs support or support lite.
I've also been debating creating spacing bumps on the bottom of the part for easier raft removal. Haven't tried it yet though.
Anyone else tinkering with adjusting the models to solve issues?
The reason I bought the Zortrax was because of its proprietary slicer which can generate easily-removable support structures. I have another printer of a different brand that also features a proprietary slicer and easily-removable support, but one of the forum members objects to me mentioning it, so I won't.
Bottom line is that if I wanted a printer with difficult support removal I'd just join the thousands struggling with open-source slicers.
I'm confident Zortrax will fix this issue, which only cropped up with the latest software rev, soon.
Exactly the reason I also bought the M200. I'm confident they will fix the problem UP. I mean UP till now their support removal was UP there with the best. So don't give UP.
LOL.... I don't have an UPther printer.. M200 is it.. I did notice if you blow cold air on bottom of raft after print it pops right off.. Canned air.. upside down.. Seems to make the plastic shrink fast and breaks it free..Or just blow on it.. That is how I figured it out..
I guess I've always had issues with supports, but I might be pushing it for a single head printer. Even with my open source printers, I've found myself designing supports to improve surface finish. Another reason with the M200 is I've been getting impatient for them to release Z-nylon... Fortunately the M200 seems very good at bridging.
Few days ago I printed using nylon with M200 but not Taulman - just some Chinese 1.75mm nylon, result was acceptable for small parts.
Mark, be aware of loosing warranty using alien filament.
My curiosity was stronger than having warranty for extruder parts :)
Currently I testing everything which I found in hands of local reseller - POM, PC, rubber, Nylon, wood.
But kids do not try it at home!!! Warranty and health with material like a POM can be lost
Can you please tell me what wood filament you used?? I tried layeoo and it printed great through half yhe print but clogged about an hour into the print…i am tempted to try again only i think i will remove and clean the head in acetone prior to using it so it has a nice clean extruder with less chance of material to stick to…can you please describe your experience with wood filament in detail???. …im also having problems with small detailed jewelry type parts i need to print…support is impossible since the parts are so tiny with inaccessible areas…i had limited success with these type of parts when i disable support…i think the small success was achievable because the parts were so small and the overhangs were short…im close to being able to achieve success with disabled support but not quite there…aside from zortrax abs do you think there could be a better material i could try that would perhaps offer me a better chance of success??? Im guessing that since im close to finding success with disabled support then maybe a material that cools more quickly or perhaps is more ridgid would allow me to print better with disabled support…nylon maybe??? Does anyone think nylon could possibly print better with disabled support???..please guys, this is important and id also love to hear experience and advice with wood filament as well…thats something id love to print with my zortrax
I have found when printing small parts it works better if you print more then one at a time
That lets the part cool when printing the next one works much better than upping the fan .
Hope that helps
Z-Ultrat filament works quite better then standard Z-ABS with smaller and complex dimensionally constrained parts, this is my finding. It has very low shrinkage so almost no warping is present in larger parts even if thin walls are used. The downside is that i can't be sanded easily like Z-ABS to smooth surfaces and lines are more visibile, so you'll have to keep it as is. I didn't try yet acethone vapours to tell if it can help in smoothing the printed piece, I don't like the way vapours reduce details.
Ultrat also helps when removing supports because the gap between the support layer and the piece is usually kept as is. Such a thing often doesen't happen with Z-ABS where in large and flat overhangs the support layer and part layer completely fuse togheter making removal almost impossibile to achieve.
To end with, I don't think that third party materials can be used with M200. Maybe other ABS can work (UP filaments?) but I suppose they would simply act the same way as Z-ABS does. I expect that Zortax will release soon new materials as promised with formulas compatible with the M200 temps or we can't but hope in a change in their mind to allow the machine itself to work with lower temps.
yea this is a huge problem because the machine seems very close to working with wood filament , its just too hot but doesnt get clogged for like an hour or two into the print...im thinking of setting the fan speed to 100 percent and adding another external fan in an attempt to keep it cool enough for wood filament to work.
i dont care about the warranty, i care more about having a machine that can do what i want rather than maintaining a warranty on a machine that cant.
too many people are upset that we cant adjust temperature, i think they should offer the option on the condition that it voids the warranty, this way they get off the hook on a large amount of potential claims and those who want this feature get it...its a win win and you can only download the mod if you fill out a waiver.