Hi,
I'm new to Zortrax and after of very successfull print on small object I tried with a large one but with very poor results .
Look at the attached file please.
I will try again with side panels .
Any other suggestions ?
Need more info, material, settings and setup.
Is it very cold where you keep the printer?
Have you tried a glue stick to aid in adhesion?
Regards
Drew
Need more info, material, settings and setup.
Is it very cold where you keep the printer?
Have you tried a glue stick to aid in adhesion?
Regards
Drew
The raft itself is stuck good. It is the part that have lifted from raft. So enclosure and no fan would be next step imo.
I'm guessing full infill...
Ambient temperature was 18° Celsius .
Standard Zortrax abs filament
Full infill (not solid)
Settings were standard, 0,39 layer
I did not try glue stick .
Thanks for replies !
Ambient temperature was 18° Celsius .
Standard Zortrax abs filament
Full infill (not solid)
Settings were standard, 0,39 layer
I did not try glue stick .
Thanks for replies !
<span><a class="" href="http://forum.zortrax.com/index.php?/user/15-trhuster/" title=""><span><span>Trhuster</span></span></a> is right, the environment is cold, you need to cover the sides and keep it warm, also full infill is basically solid and that will increase the shrink/warp. If your design can tolerate it you should try minimal infill.</span>
Regards
Drew
What Drew write and stay away from 0.39 layers.
Ambient temperature was 18° Celsius .
Standard Zortrax abs filament
Full infill (not solid)
Settings were standard, 0,39 layer
I did not try glue stick .
Thanks for replies !
0.39 layers were known to have poor layer bonding in 0.0.9.6; I haven't heard any reports as to whether it's been improved in 1.0. I'd suggest trying 0.29mm layers as that's known to work well.
Less infill might help, as there will be less plastic trying to shrink.
Glue stick helps with raft adhesion, but your raft looks like it was well-adhered, probably from ABS juice on the platform as shipped. Side covers will definitely help, but the type of object you're trying to print is always challenging in ABS due to shrinkage.
Thanks so much for all your suggestions :)
I will make another try taking care for them.
Do the special Zortrax Abs reduce shrinkage or is it just marketing ?
I must buy soon some filament as well as side covers , around 50 Euro , seems to me a fair price .
Hi
Your part is realy a large one. Z-HIPS migth be a better choice than Z-ABS.
When you talk about special Zortrax ABS, do you refer to Z-ULTRA ? If so, yes, it is a bit better but there is no comparison with Z-HIPS about warping.
Laurent
Salut Laurent,
yes special ABS was referring to Z-Ultra.
I will try both, thanks !
In attach my print .
It is a difficult part , a real challenge .
1508
I have the same problems. I must print a lot of pieces that have straight faces larger than 9-10 cm.
With z-ABS I always have cracks in these pieces, even if the sides and the front of the M200 are covered.
One week ago I tried using z-Hips. I have only made one big print with this material, but the result was quite better, and there was no crack.
The problem of curling has not disappeared. Since I use hairspray, the adhesion to the building plate is much better and the raft does not come unstuck so easily, but there is anyway certain curling. But the pieces made of zHIPS does not crack during the print.
I got some samples from a BQ Wittbox, which prints with PLA, and the piece was perfect. The base of the piece was absolutely flat.
Maybe PLA is not considered a good material for 3D printing, but in some applications it can be a good option. With the price of a z-HIPS spool i could purchase 3 PLA spools. I don't need the mechanical properties of z-Hips, I just need a material with a lower shrinkage which does not have such curling problems.
Hi Draude,
I do not think that PLA would be a good idea for the Zortrax , for shure PLA is a good material for 3D printing it depends from your needs.
I choose Zortrax because for my parts I need ABS.
I already had another printer but I did not want to invest time in finding the right settings for ABS and discover after fine tuning how far the results could go.
I have receive the side panels and Zortrax premium filaments , I will do some prints this weekend.
Hi,
If you'll print with z-hips, I advise you to use Z-Suite 1.0. I had some difficulties to remove raft generated with previous version. Now it's easy.
Laurent
Hi Draude,
I do not think that PLA would be a good idea for the Zortrax , for shure PLA is a good material for 3D printing it depends from your needs.
I choose Zortrax because for my parts I need ABS.
I already had another printer but I did not want to invest time in finding the right settings for ABS and discover after fine tuning how far the results could go.
I have receive the side panels and Zortrax premium filaments , I will do some prints this weekend.
Hi Lucamac,
I don't mean that Zortrax should print PLA instead of ABS. A lot of 3D-printers can be used with both ABS and PLA, and what I mean is that it would be very valuable if M200 was also tuned for printing PLA, for these situations in which this material is more appropriate.
I am waiting for the side panels, but in the meanwhile i cover the sides and the front using boxes and big books (catalogues). I also have improved the adherence of the perforated plate with the ABS slurry and with hairspray (the second one was much more effective). I have followed all the tips that can be found in this forum. But the base of the pieces never is flat unless they are very small, either when they are printed with z-ABS or with z-HIPS.
Hello Draude,
I have not measure how much is flat the part I have print with z-Hips described in this post http://forum.zortrax.com/index.php?/topic/1749-big-print-big-success/
But at glance it appears to me flat .
The part is 135 x 94 x 85 mm