Bronzefill!

501Ffig.jpg

.29mm, Z-ABS profile, normal speed. Sanded, burnished, then dry-brushed with black acrylic (it's what I had in the garage) for patina. V2 hotend.

And an unheated platform / -50 offset with Z-Temp *cough* *cough*

wow its work with bronzefill good

Thanks! I've been trying to get Bronzefill to work for a long, long time :) 

Apart from the Z-Temp *cough* *cough* the most important modifications are to slightly widen the nozzle and mount your filament above the printer.

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TY190C?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RC0M8Q0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

Ahhhhh, I hate making stupid mistakes. This was Copperfill, not Bronzefill. Sorry about that, everyone.

What size do you need to widen nozzle too?

What are you z-temp settings?

What size do you need to widen nozzle too?

What are you z-temp settings?

It was printed with Z-ABS settings and hot end V2 as mentioned at first post I owe z-temp and I do not use it anymore it is lame engeenered without any temperature display and not worth money paid and since hotend V2 just now for me is better to use Z-HIPS/Z-GLASS profile which have lowered temperature I think problem with new materials was not with temperature but with V1 hotend

I think problem with new materials was not with temperature but with V1 hotend

V2 hotend just decreases friction. It makes a big difference, but not enough on its own and it still needed to be widened anyway.

What size do you need to widen nozzle too?

.5mm, if I remember correctly.

It was printed with Z-ABS settings and hot end V2 as mentioned at first post I owe z-temp and I do not use it anymore it is lame engeenered without any temperature display and not worth money paid and since hotend V2 just now for me is better to use Z-HIPS/Z-GLASS profile which have lowered temperature I think problem with new materials was not with temperature but with V1 hotend

I have the strange feeling that among other things you're also a liar. But I'm could be wrong.

Personally, I've gone off the Colorfabb "xxxFill" metal materials - for me they are too much hassle to print and too much hassle to post-process. For a real metal look I love the coating process with metal powder and wood glue, which has the added bonus of hiding layer lines at the same time.

The "Copper-Infused" (and I think they have aluminum, too) PLA from Octave and Afinia in the US and from Reprapper in EU gives a very metallic (albeit toy-ish) look right out of the printer, with no post-processing.

Iron-filled PLA from ProtoPasta is great, too - it prints very easily and looks nice (a bit like lead) right from the printer, and is easily sprayed with a mild chemical solution to produce a rust finish.

It was printed with Z-ABS settings and hot end V2 as mentioned at first post I owe z-temp and I do not use it anymore it is lame engeenered without any temperature display and not worth money paid and since hotend V2 just now for me is better to use Z-HIPS/Z-GLASS profile which have lowered temperature I think problem with new materials was not with temperature but with V1 hotend

The question was directed at the O.P.  His first and third posts state that a Z-Temp was used to get an appropriate extrusion temperature. Colorfabb cannot be printed well at Z-ABS or Z-Hips profile temps even with v2 hot end, since it requires 190 - 220ºC.

Mark82, on 29 Aug 2015 - 05:15 AM, said:snapback.png

It was printed with Z-ABS settings and hot end V2 as mentioned at first post I owe z-temp and I do not use it anymore it is lame engeenered without any temperature display and not worth money paid and since hotend V2 just now for me is better to use Z-HIPS/Z-GLASS profile which have lowered temperature I think problem with new materials was not with temperature but with V1 hotend

 

I have the strange feeling that among other things you're also a liar. But I'm could be wrong.

That's a strong statement, I think poor Mark82 is probably still low on oxygen (was talking about that in another thread) and obviously he is not able to calculate well. Maybe he need to lift his visor for a better sight?

My z-temp saved me it's price every 10 spools of 3rd party abs I print, It's worth the price multiple times meanwhile.

If I would buy more M200s the z-temps for them would be already paid that way. Just a view with an open visor here.  :ph34r:

Personally, I've gone off the Colorfabb "xxxFill" metal materials - for me they are too much hassle to print and too much hassle to post-process. For a real metal look I love the coating process with metal powder and wood glue, which has the added bonus of hiding layer lines at the same time.

The weight of the finished part is almost as important to me as surface finish. I love how x-fill prints feel in the hand.

 

Iron-filled PLA from ProtoPasta is great, too - it prints very easily and looks nice (a bit like lead) right from the printer, and is easily sprayed with a mild chemical solution to produce a rust finish.

 

I remember seeing a video about that a while back. May be time for a revisit.

And your owl print does look very nice :)

Quick update on layer heights:

(Temperature, speed, and profile were constant across all tests)

.29mm- Works, but surface finish isn't the greatest. Unless you're going for the striated look, which does have some appeal.

.19mm- Works, much nicer surface finish, easier to sand smooth. Going forward, this will be my resolution of choice when working with Copperfill.

.14mm- Untested.

.09mm- Doesn't work. Layers are too close together, causing the filament to back up in the nozzle. But the filament came out just fine during the standard unloading procedure, which was a relief. My Copperfill jams usually mean disassembling the entire hotend.

Sidebar: I messed around with my rafts before disposing of them. Acetone makes Copperfill brittle and crumbly while ferric chloride (PCB enchant), surprisingly, didn't have any effect at all when soaked for about a minute. In retrospect, I should have scraped the surface a bit to remove the oxide layer. Need to do an overnight test :)

Edit: Also, Brasso polish was underwhelming. I've seen videos of amazingly shiny parts coming out of a 6-hour rock tumbler session, so I may be building/buying one of those in the future.