Build plate pushing up against hotend

Right after unpacking, after having meticoulously followed all the first time set-up instructions, I tried the first print. The build platform insistently pushed against hotend. I switched off and tried to calibrate, but the problem happened again. Here’s a small video and some pictures of the damages ( holes) the hotend made into the platform. https://youtu.be/Dj0pW5PLBfY

What Firmware version have you got?

http://www.support.zortrax.com/support-form 

Give us a shout, include photos there - we will replace your plate. 

What Firmware version have you got?

http://www.support.zortrax.com/support-form 

Give us a shout, include photos there - we will replace your plate. 

I downloaded the latest firmware available (Ver 1.0.4, released Aug3rd).

Even with a new plate and a new hotend, I must find out why this has happened, otherwise the problem could repeat. Thanks for your help

In the meantime I just sent pictures, proof of purchase etc to support team.

<div style="font-size:19px;color:rgb(28,37,45);font-family:graphielight, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;">1.0.4</div>
<div style="font-size:19px;color:rgb(28,37,45);font-family:graphielight, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;">03 Aug 2016</div>

I downloaded the latest firmware available (Ver 1.0.4, released Aug3rd).

Even with a new plate and a new hotend, I must find out why this has happened, otherwise the problem could repeat. Thanks for your help

In the meantime I just sent pictures, proof of purchase etc to support team.

1.0.4
03 Aug 2016

Looks like an electrical fault - the printer expects to see a closed circuit between the platform and nozzle the moment they touch, but that circuit never completes.

A low-tech way of checking this would be:

1) Turn the printer off, wait until it cools

2) If the hotend or metallized pads are dirty, clean away a spot on both to provide a good contact surface

3) Put something conductive between the hotend and the metallized pad, completing the circuit - preferrably a soft copper wire, to avoid scratching anything

4) Turn the printer on and wait until either an error message or the main menu appears.

If you shorted the hotend to the build plate, and the circuit is complete, you should see an error, specifically "Error #033 Check the perforated plate contacts and restart the printer". If this error doesn't appear after a few tries, then the circuit is broken somewhere - on either the extruder or build plate side. 

I solved with a cable from the hotend soldered director in the connector.

A friend suggested to me 4 months ago and from that time no problem for me :)

If u need some shot ask :)

I solved with a cable from the hotend soldered director in the connector.

A friend suggested to me 4 months ago and from that time no problem for me :)

If u need some shot ask :)

It would be kind if you could post some pics since I am not much into "do it yourself"...thanks for your help

Zstaff : look closely at the pictures to make the right diagnosis: apparently there is a iimpact of the nozzle outside the metallized area!

Hi there

i got the same Problem on two M200 printers. At the place where Hotend "crashes" into the platform, there is a burn mark now. So, every print i have to hope, that the nozzle touch another place on the "conductivity pad" and my hand is always at the on/off switch.

Be sure that the nozzle and platform is clean at the beginning of every! print.

The idea of the bed leveling is good... but if there is a malfunction, the hot hotend crash into the bed and may destroy it.

@jacek.janiszewski

Is it possible to repair the platform by "diy" (solder the burned spot and grind it even?)

Hi there

i got the same Problem on two M200 printers. At the place where Hotend "crashes" into the platform, there is a burn mark now. So, every print i have to hope, that the nozzle touch another place on the "conductivity pad" and my hand is always at the on/off switch.

Be sure that the nozzle and platform is clean at the beginning of every! print.

The idea of the bed leveling is good... but if there is a malfunction, the hot hotend crash into the bed and may destroy it.

@jacek.janiszewski

Is it possible to repair the platform by "diy" (solder the burned spot and grind it even?)

I repaired it using aluminium foil curled into a small ball and super glue. Press the ball into the hole (filled with super glue-or use conductive glue from ebay) and even out the surface by squeezing the top of the ball. It worked when I did it.

I am having the exact same issue with mine. I've owned it less than a year. Brand new nozzle and clean build plate.

I solved with a cable from the hotend soldered director in the connector.

A friend suggested to me 4 months ago and from that time no problem for me :)

If u need some shot ask :)

Can post some photo or explain how to resolve?

thanks

Just had the same problem with my new v4 printer. Only 137 hours on it. My v1 has well over 5000 hours and not once have I had this problem. Calling the reseller in the AM..

Well.... After emailing with 3D proshare today, it sounds as if this is not a warranty issue.. Printer is 2 months old with 137 hours on it. Perf board is badly damaged, lost 2 nozzles, and they suggested replacing the ribbon cable. This is part of what I got back from them. "These are not covered under warranty because they are consumable part of 3D printing" That is crap!! I understand you must replace parts when they wear out, but when they flat out FAIL it should be a warranty issue..

Just saying.. We'll see where this goes.

Here is the response I got back.. This is complete crap!!

Kyle,

I can see that you are frustrated and I understand. However, Rafal doesn’t provide any warranty to the United States; this is completely offered by us as a courtesy to our customers. The warranty on your printer runs for a full 12 months+ from the time of purchase; if you purchased from Amazon in January, your printer is covered until the last day of February, 2018. The warranty would cover anything that was not functioning at the time of delivery and anything over and above normal use throughout the life of the warranty.

The fact that you had successful prints for 137 hours would indicate it was working upon arrival. When it started crashing into the build plate, that is indication there might be a problem, but you had some successful prints after that, before the print where you “walked away” and the nozzle tore up the plate. We always suggest staying in close proximity to your printer, when printing, especially if you are experiencing any issues.

The damaged plate you are showing us is one we have seen before when there is filament residue built up in the perf plate. When we look at the perf plate you sent the picture of, we can see the build up in the little holes and that causes the sensors to not be able to consistently read and stop the nozzle from digging into it. We can’t cover user error, but we can assist you in identifying the problem and getting it resolved. This is part of the reason perf plates have to be replaced over time.

I am happy to assist you further if you decide that will assist you in keeping up with your prints/projects. It is my goal for all of my customers to have an exceptional customer service experience when you shop with me. If you feel that is not how you’ve been treated, and mentioning it in the forum will help you feel better, then by all means do that. I would always want an honest review from my customers, and am confident enough with my service to state that.

I’ll wait to hear from you.

Here is the response I got back.. This is complete crap!!

Kyle,

I can see that you are frustrated and I understand. However, Rafal doesn’t provide any warranty to the United States; this is completely offered by us as a courtesy to our customers. The warranty on your printer runs for a full 12 months+ from the time of purchase; if you purchased from Amazon in January, your printer is covered until the last day of February, 2018. The warranty would cover anything that was not functioning at the time of delivery and anything over and above normal use throughout the life of the warranty.

The fact that you had successful prints for 137 hours would indicate it was working upon arrival. When it started crashing into the build plate, that is indication there might be a problem, but you had some successful prints after that, before the print where you “walked away” and the nozzle tore up the plate. We always suggest staying in close proximity to your printer, when printing, especially if you are experiencing any issues.

The damaged plate you are showing us is one we have seen before when there is filament residue built up in the perf plate. When we look at the perf plate you sent the picture of, we can see the build up in the little holes and that causes the sensors to not be able to consistently read and stop the nozzle from digging into it. We can’t cover user error, but we can assist you in identifying the problem and getting it resolved. This is part of the reason perf plates have to be replaced over time.

I am happy to assist you further if you decide that will assist you in keeping up with your prints/projects. It is my goal for all of my customers to have an exceptional customer service experience when you shop with me. If you feel that is not how you’ve been treated, and mentioning it in the forum will help you feel better, then by all means do that. I would always want an honest review from my customers, and am confident enough with my service to state that.

I’ll wait to hear from you.

As far as I see, my colleague is already dealing with your case.

We'll see how it goes Marcin. Had more time to test tonight. Jumped white and black wire on the small plug to simulate plate being plugged in. Hooked a wire to red lead to simulate plate contact. Started printer. When bed started to rise, touched the wire connected to red lead on small plug to the nozzle, and the bed kept going up. Not sure if it is the plug, wire going to the plug or something on the top end. My V1 printer has a wire connected to the hot end. Where would this wire connect to on the V4 printer? From hot end to where on the PCB?

Hello I can confirm this issue, it happened on two printers M200.. It made some nasty holes, the first one has a minimal hole, and surprise the printer seem to work today after closely inspecting xy, and z, but the real problem is that today, 1 hour ago actually, a fully working printer displayed the same issue, and it made a really nasty hole (2 actually) in the perforated plate.

Update.. After replacing main heated bed cable, extruder PCB, and heater cartridge/thermo coupler we're up and running!! Thanks to Zortrax CS for sending out the parts. Shame on 3DProshare for not calling this a warranty issue.. Last time I use them for parts or filament!!!!!