Extruder clicking noise, maybe motor fail or PCB damaged?


#21

So it would seem my suggestion that the pressure bearing might be degrading or in this case “canted” or “shifted” would have caused it to bind or rub against the mounting surface or away from the feeder gear teeth may have been closer to right.


#22

You were very close, Drew! I knew from our experience with bearing failures on the Up! that this was a potential issue and I installed a brand new bearing 10 days ago, but it didn't help. I knew that using a 5-cent screw as a bearing shaft was bush-league on the part of Zortrax, but I never dreamt that a little bit of wear on it would wreak the havoc that it did.


#23

Replacement of that screw should be on everyone's periodic maintenance list. Both my printers are now printing better than they have in many months.


#24

Replacement of that screw should be on everyone's periodic maintenance list. Both my printers are now printing better than they have in many months.

In my case I solved the problem sligtly moving the feeder gear, anyway I will check the screw and I guess I will change it with a new screw, just in case.

 
Did you write down the exact dimensions of the screw?

#25

M3-0.5 x 10mm. It is not necessary to disassemble anything to replace this screw - the bearing will not move if the extruder is left assembled.


#26

Gouges in the motor face bear witness to the problem - the outer race has clearly been rubbing. In a proper design, the bearing inner race would be spaced away from the housing and motor, ensuring that the outer race always rotates freely. 


#27

Thanks Julia!

I will replace the screw with Screw DIN 7991 MF6S 10.9 M3x10.


#28

The interesting thing and frustrating is that the common small bearing used on all these printer designs is not designed with the inner/mount race wider than the outer/contact race, this causes the scraping contact marks and degrades the performance of the bearing.

This is why I always use a thin spacer/washer for the inner race mounting/clamping to keep the outer race from contact with mounting surfaces.


#29

Yep!


#30

This all about MINE M200 (v4, decembre 2015).

The bear has produced a sign with the time and the work (now i'm at 2000 hours).

It's normal (IMHO).

Bear work perfect and i've the sign in the motor becuase during extrusion it move in front and rear and left a sign in the engine body.

Mine screw is 9,92 mm long.

The bear is 2.92 mm depth and the bear hole is 3.09 mm depth so perfect design and production.

I repeat, in MINE.


#31

The problem happens when uneven wear on the threads of the screw causes the bearing to slant or be not straight on the shaft. Maybe check yours after another 5 or 6,000 hours :) Anyway, if you have no problem that's great. If you do have an extruder clicking problem that cannot be solved by changing the nozzle or the cable or the motor or anything else, maybe just try changing that little screw.


#32

Good to know, thank you.


#33
I have finally figured out what was causing that horrible clicking noise!

it's been two weeks that noise appeared on mine, this morning I followed your advice : yes, It works !!

(however I'm not sure the fan is working again)

Thank you very much giufini !


#34

it's been two weeks that noise appeared on mine, this morning I followed your advice : yes, It works !!

(however I’m not sure the fan is working again)

Thank you very much giufini !

Perfect! You are welcome!


#35

As far as replacing the bearing and the screw in the US @ www.mcmaster.com

Bearing is "7804K125" @ $7.41 each and the Screw is "91294A130" $4.67 per 100

-db


#36

683-zz is the more common number. Used in RC. Found them on Amazon for about $1 each. (lot of ten)


#37

683-zz is the more common number. Used in RC. Found them on Amazon for about $1 each. (lot of ten)

What's the difference between "zz" and "2z"?  -db


#38

683 is the bearing size and type. 

ZZ and 2Z defines the seal type.  They mean the same thing here, in this case a 2 sided metal seal (coding differs because different manufactures use different coding).

A plastic/rubber seal version would probably also be fine, they have much better sealing but also introduce friction due to seal (but in this case probably small due to diameter of bearing).

Good list here

http://www.microbluebearings.com/pages/BEARING-SUFFIX-CODES.html


#39

Found this thread very helpful!

I can say that in my case also pushing to the right the extruder motor while securing in place,

will help the gear in pushing down the filament more continuosly.

I was struggling in uneven prints and some random clicking noise,

found my ribbon cable damaged and replaced it.

I can confirm it's not a voltage dropdown problem but a CURRENT issue. 

I think that in a broken/damaged cable we have a weak or intermittent connection, resulting in a jerky filament pulling, because of the low torque force.

Cheers!


#40

Here's how i found the cable problem:

25rh2rq.jpg

How to open the connector for inspection:

Push down all the pins, you will hear a "click"

xbmp94.jpg

Pull the cable while holding the connector and...

2ms2h69.jpg

Yes, it was in the "z" shaped part, a very leaking connections from alu strips inside the flat cable. ;)