I was kind of surprised noticing that a full infill does not generate a plastic part with a full infill !
The infill is still mesh like ! It seems like an 70% - 80% infill compared to slic3r printouts !
This is disappointing ! This affects the stability of every plastic part you print.
How can't i generate a real FULL INFILL ? Every 3d printer i know can do that.
Lucian
Why would you even need full infill?
Based on my calculations, full infill is 75% full.
http://forum.zortrax.com/index.php?/topic/1453-infill-to/?hl=infill
I need an 100% infill to produce parts that are strong enough to hold things together.
It seems that Zortrax can not do that.
Well good luck with the "other" printers that can do that.
IMO-You can squeeze crap together and have less air, but in the end it is still crap. hehehe
So, should we expect to see your M200 in the sales section?
They have all the documentation that can be researched before buying a Zortrax on their site.
I was thinking the same as you, Lucian. I need full infill because I sometimes need to machine my parts. If you make coarse threads, for instance, you cut beneath the outer solid layers and into the mesh, leaving a very weak, ugly and rather useless thread. If you need to precision machine a surface for some reason, there isn't enough machining allowance before you cut through the layers and into the mesh. Would be nice to have true infill! Strengthwise full infill will be stronger assuming that the layers are bonded properly.
Well good luck with the "other" printers that can do that.
IMO-You can squeeze crap together and have less air, but in the end it is still crap. hehehe
So, should we expect to see your M200 in the sales section?
They have all the documentation that can be researched before buying a Zortrax on their site.
So based on the picture of full infill in the link, is one supposed to know that full infill is not full infill, but a mesh? You can see the strands crossing, but knowing that its not full infill is rather difficult to see. You could also try to be more polite and less obnoxious in your response to the thread starter.
sadly there are a lot of "buts" regarding the zortrax m200. i am using the m200 for a week now.
at first everything looked good. but now i discover more and more stuff that i would not have with
my mendelmax 1.5,
the missing full infill is something that i can not accept so easily. like motordude said, there are some applications
that need a true full infill. keeping that in mind, i would have to maintain two 3d printers to be able to do that.
i don't know if my wife will accept that, i don't know if i am going to either. one printer should be enough.
and: even the raft gets a full infill for the last layers !!!!! why not what follows ?!?
hope this topic doesn't get deleted.
Yes I sure would love to see the options 100% infill, zortrax makes a very solid printer
It is sad that they hold us back from using it at its full potential
I understand that they are making the printer that every Tom Dick and Harry can run, but what about the people like me who live outside the box and need a printer with some controls.
I get my printer back in the early days all I had to go by was the kickstater.
Back when they was promising the moon. If I would have known my hands would have been tired I would have never bought this printer.
I saw it today to while printing a replacement part which has to withstand some mechanical pressure. I had chosen full infill which indeed is not 100% full infill. I printed the part in Z-HIPS which I think it is strong enough but full infill should be 100%.
Maybe we get this future in the upcoming Z-Suite
Hi
If you need slim (around 3mm) parts, you may try to use advanced setting, put 6 layers on both top & bottom, and choose a 0.29mm layer height.
That’s not a real solution for sure, but it can help to make them stiffer
Laurent
EDIT: I use m200 for about 6 months now, and I think that’s a printer to make prototypes (accurate enough, amazing repeatability), but not a one to make small series production for parts with special strength properties. For few weeks, I started to work again with my more “opened” printers. I did a lot to improve print quality - and m200 helped me printing better parts for them- and, even if it is not at m200 level, I am able to print with them using the settings/materials I want.
I saw it today to while printing a replacement part which has to withstand some mechanical pressure. I had chosen full infill which indeed is not 100% full infill. I printed the part in Z-HIPS which I think it is strong enough but full infill should be 100%.
Maybe we get this future in the upcoming Z-Suite
Z-HIPS is the weakest Z material.
I'm also waiting for the 100% infill.
sometimes it's really necessary to have accurate parts in form and fit.
And yes you can take precautions when modeling. But really...that's not the way like it should be.
So Zortrax needs to fix this IMO.
I still think it's a great printer. But there is still a long way to go !
(End surfaces, support material, software and hardware...)
But remember as long Zortrax continue to develop the printer and his software there's hope.
And hope makes money !
Z-HIPS is the weakest Z material.
The biggest issue with full infill and ABS in a non heated enclosure will be the huge amount of warping that will occur. Forget printing anything large, or probably even medium sized.
You could also try to be more polite and less obnoxious in your response to the thread starter.
Must be lost in translation.
Wasn't being rude or obnoxious. Just stating facts and my opinion. Sorry you can't understand my english. I will try to be more "polite and less obnoxious" in my future posts of questions, facts and opinions.
@wilsonj - what temperature should a heated enclosure provide within the build chamber ?
According to my information chambers in Stratasys printers are heated to 70°C. I heated mine to 40°C and warping was reduced but still present. You must be careful not to hurt the steppers which are inside the chamber.
And here is my ghetto style enclosure:
2088
2089
