I seem to have read in forum that there are two versions of the M200 (Someone talked about a V2 printer). Tomorrow I'm going to meet a reseller to buy one, is there any way to understand which version of the 3D printer I'm going to see in action?
Off topic: this seems to be 6000th post in the forum. Great that this printer has a so nice and partecipating community. I hope to be able to give my support as well in the near future.
I cant quite remember the exact menu options (i'm not at my printer right now) but on the LCD screen use the knob to select information and there you will see the hardware version number.
Menu -> Information -> Hardware version
For my own curiosity, what are the differences between the versions, and do they have a list of versions by serial number?
For my own curiosity, what are the differences between the versions, and do they have a list of versions by serial number?
The V1 and V3 have ball screw on the Z, the V2 have lead screw on the Z. I have both versions, and at the beginning was a problem with dimensional tolerance with lead screw, they solved it in the software so that's why you need to choose HW version in the ZSuite.
Thank you Aleksiej :)
Are the V3 the most recent ones, and the machine I should be expecting if I purchased from a reseller?
Nizzy,
I don't think I understand your answer, let me see if I can rephrase. New printers purchased, are they V3 with the ballscrew, or V2 with the acme screw?
Thanks!
Abraham
Nizzy,
I don’t think I understand your answer, let me see if I can rephrase. New printers purchased, are they V3 with the ballscrew, or V2 with the acme screw?
Thanks!
Abraham
I think it will be V3
I think they will not have a ballscrew… so… will be a V2.
At the moment we have only v3 printers with ballscrew in stock.
Ahhh! Mine (acme screw) was just a moment in the Z story?
A speck of disapointment here...
Ahhh! Mine (acme screw) was just a moment in the Z story?
A speck of disapointment here...
I am starting to worry the new printer I purchased from 3dproshare is also a V2, as that is what he is claiming I should click on the software (although he didn't seem to know the difference between them).
Ahhh! Mine (acme screw) was just a moment in the Z story?
A speck of disapointment here...
I would not be disappointed Angelo.. We use a 1000mm acme screw on our time lapse equipment with resolution down to .03mm or .001" These are used outside in harsh environments as well. One has even been to Antarctica a couple times.. Don't feel bad about the Acme screw.. :D 
That little penguim seems disapointed too... :)
LOL!!!!!!!!!!!! You are too funny!!!
Hi,
I have a v2 Printer and in our companies development department we have a v3 printer. As far as I noticed until now, there is no difference in the print quality. I even think my v2 is doing a better job, because I took the time to adjust the mechanics a bit better than the stock v3. The advantage of accuracy the ball screw lost, because it’s nut is not assembled tight to the print bed holder (stock). Another point is, that I still prefer the manual bed leveling with a card as it was adviced when I purchased my printer because it is still much faster. Unfortunately the auto calibration gives no advice which angle (approx.) you should turn the screws or how many mm you should higher/lower this point of the platform. So it’s always try and error. With the v3 even this manual calibration is nearly impossible without fixing the ball screw. It is not keeping the bed at it’s position.
So don’t worry, I think we don’t have purchased an “oldtimer”. 
Thank you Oliver!
Hi,
I have a v2 Printer and in our companies development department we have a v3 printer. As far as I noticed until now, there is no difference in the print quality. I even think my v2 is doing a better job, because I took the time to adjust the mechanics a bit better than the stock v3. The advantage of accuracy the ball screw lost, because it’s nut is not assembled tight to the print bed holder (stock). Another point is, that I still prefer the manual bed leveling with a card as it was adviced when I purchased my printer because it is still much faster. Unfortunately the auto calibration gives no advice which angle (approx.) you should turn the screws or how many mm you should higher/lower this point of the platform. So it’s always try and error. With the v3 even this manual calibration is nearly impossible without fixing the ball screw. It is not keeping the bed at it’s position.
So don’t worry, I think we don’t have purchased an “oldtimer”.
I also have fe pcs with lead screw and few with ball screw, I never noticed any difference between both version.