Local problem on a printed model

Zortrax M200 General Discussion
#1

Hello,

I've recently acquired my M200 (2 weeks ago), after several positive test prints I would like to print a house model without support.

So the problem is model always have same burn marks on one window upright & mess of filaments. (Just to precise that these uprights are not the thinner of this model and all other one are well printed, the problem is exclusively in this location of the model). See attached file: 

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Window upright.jpg

The model is this one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1052844(Model: MyHouse_FL1.stl)

So my parameters are:

- Speed medium, layer: 0.14, infill: light, NO SUPPORT

- Fan auto & 100% (tested with both conf)

- I've rotated the model in several sides of my plate

- Test with Z-ABS, Z-ULTRA, -Z-HIPS

- The file is ok

- Nozzle is cleaned before each printing

- Tested with seam random & normal

- Tested with smart bridge & no smart bridge

What I don't understand is when I split the model to test only the concerned area, the result is correct. See attached file: 

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Split model.jpg

Does anyone have already met this kind of problem? And how can I resolve it

Or if it's a problem with my machine?

If anyone want to feel free to print this model with same parameters, I will be enjoyed to know what is the result (I just precise no need to print all the model, after 1h of printing the problem appears like on this picture:

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unnamed.jpg

Thanks in advance for help.

Regards.

Drazel

#2

How many filaments you printed on this printer? I think you should change or clean the nozzle.

#3

I've printed 3 kind of filaments with my machine (and not even finished the spool of each). I got my M200 since 2 weeks

I clean my nozzle before each test. Do I already need to change my noozle? 

Furthermore new problem appears 1h ago, I would autocalibrate and the plate hits crudely the nozzle without stopping.

This is a lot of problems imo for a machine who is 2 weeks old :/

#4

I suggest contact with Zortrax support or your reseller.

#5

Hello,

 
Is the raft still stick well to the heating plate when the problem happens?
 
It's a large flat model, in this case it's difficult to print abs without detachment...

If the raft comes off that way, then the nozzle will soak in the previous layer and will burn it, that should explain that you don’t have problem when you split the model.

#6

Yes the model is well sticked to the raft (I've tested in several different positions on the plate to ensure ). I've already printed models with larger base and noticed no issues.

I would be curious if anyone can print the beginning of non plsit model, as I said the problem appears around 1H printing (as the print of upright begin)

And what about the recent problem which is the plate crash in nozzle (without stopping on it) when autocalibration is performing?

#7

And what about the recent problem which is the plate crash in nozzle (without stopping on it) when autocalibration is performing?

This was caused by loosing electric contact between the nozzle and PCB. This have to be done through the temperature sensor wires, that one with shielded cables on the back of the heater aluminum block. I solved this problem creating a bypass, a simple wire attached to one of the screws on top of the Alu block and on the other side on the PCB ground (where you will find one of the temp sensor wires attached).

#8

hola Venosa,

You have photos for this scheme?

thanks

#9

There are two small screws on the heater aluminium block, they are use to tighten the heater and thermocouple.

You can try to put in the right place the temperature sensor and tighten the screws to improve the electrical contact (avoid colliding with the heating plate) and improve precision of the extrusion temperature (avoid burns).

#10

There are two small screws on the heater aluminum block, they are use to tighten the heater and thermocouple.

You can try to put in the right place the temperature sensor and tighten the screws to improve the electrical contact (avoid colliding with the heating plate) and improve precision of the extrusion temperature (avoid burns).

I tried this first but got an unreliable fix, but could be me in a hurry...

Sure, this is the right thing to do.

hola Venosa,

You have photos for this scheme?

Not really beautiful, I didn't had the appropriate wire at the time.

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IMG_2091.JPG

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IMG_2092.JPG

#11

I tried this first but got an unreliable fix, but could be me in a hurry...

Sure, this is the right thing to do.

 

 

Not really beautiful, I didn’t had the appropriate wire at the time.

 

attachicon.gifIMG_2091.JPG

attachicon.gifIMG_2092.JPG

thanks

#12

does this auto calibration problem happen alot with M 200

#13

does this auto calibration problem happen alot with M 200

I have calibrated my bed maybe 5 times in the almost 2 years I have had the machine. (never a problem) The main thing is to clean under the perf board when you notice problems..

#14

Ok thanks Kyle.

Since the op is from france may I ask where did you get your printer from. I might get mine from a french company as well since their prices are cheaper than the origional company itself.

#15

All reasons mentioned above can resolve this problem, nonetheless we are aware of the issue with the burnings on white materials and that's going to be fixed in the upcoming update of the software.

Best regards,

Chris

Zortrax Team