I've had a number of machines do this, and have found that one (back left) of the upright bed pins was shorting the board to ground. Easy way to check is while the bed is moving down lift if off the pins and see if it goes up. That is what I found.
In my opinion these pins should be plastic. Ideally PTFE. Easier to slide on and align and non conductive. As it is I tend to put a dab of grease on the pins which helps to insulate and make removal easier.
I was reading up on the new Perf board and got scared when I was installing mine. Had one pinger on the power button. :lol:
Installed perfectly and auto calibrated almost perfect. Was hoping it would be 0.00 :o all around but I am guessing that will never be the case with any Printer.
Still, it looks pretty and works and that's all I need.
Cheers
Had a little scare. Thought I mightve spoken too soon bout my new board. lol
I was working on a file quick with the machine in idle and It took a bit longer than anticipated, when I got back to the machine the board seemed way hot so I temped it. 225Ëš which I figured was way too hot.
I know the first there prints on my board were rough as heck to get off but that should be because of the new bigger holes. lol Didn't think of heat so I took the board off and check the set up. Well things are as they are suppose to be.
Set it back up and then in idle it would hover around 145 which is pretty normal. Hit print and then it struggled to heat which the lights were dim on bottom of board. Played with the tape on the heating element and all lights work right and the board heated..a little slower than usual but decent enough I guess. lol
I was thinking it was the pins soldered together until I read about it and realized those are just for the sensor to adjust the nozzle hight. (brain freeze) :lol:
So doing a print now and seems to be good.
Anyone have suggestions on the bottom wires for the heat plate? I think I have some 1/2" Kapton that should do the trick, if the tape is the issue that is. lol
Cheers
are talking about the sensor which is under the kapton tape in the middle of the platform or something else?
are talking about the sensor which is under the kapton tape in the middle of the platform or something else?
Yes, That is what I am talking about. lol
I've had a number of machines do this, and have found that one (back left) of the upright bed pins was shorting the board to ground. Easy way to check is while the bed is moving down lift if off the pins and see if it goes up. That is what I found.
In my opinion these pins should be plastic. Ideally PTFE. Easier to slide on and align and non conductive. As it is I tend to put a dab of grease on the pins which helps to insulate and make removal easier.
As an update, I have discovered a few V2 (version 1) are conductive on the bottom, and have small scratches on the tracks that short on the bed. There is now a new version V2 bed with redesigned tracks. Hopefully this solves the issues.
After using of many 3D printers, I would like to thank Zortrax team for amazing perforated heating bed invention. It is really cool solution as warping was my main battle with another printers.
But I would like to see better cables connection to bed. This one looks not so durable solution.
After using of many 3D printers, I would like to thank Zortrax team for amazing perforated heating bed invention. It is really cool solution as warping was my main battle with another printers.
But I would like to see better cables connection to bed. This one looks not so durable solution.
Small connector is a very durable solution, I've seen maybe 2-3 problems with this connectors here on the forum, and on 100% one of this was damaged by user :)
Don't look doesn't mean that it is not :)
After using of many 3D printers, I would like to thank Zortrax team for amazing perforated heating bed invention. It is really cool solution as warping was my main battle with another printers.
But I would like to see better cables connection to bed. This one looks not so durable solution.
You're welcome :)