Printing and screws


For all I've seen, fixing printing parts always uses screw and nut.

Is it possible to screw directly in drilled printed ABS or will it be stripped out ?

My experience has been that a nut and bolt work best for anything that requires torque. A screw will work if you can control how much pressure you use screwing it in……they do strip easy otherwise.

Yes it will works I have done it, but remember you only have plastic threads it is best to use a course thread

If something very solid is needed then I think brass threaded inserts for plastic is the best and most professional way - in big quantity cost cents but eBay or some shops will offer it more expensive in smaller quantity.


Best Regards

I screwed the pencil sharpener directly into the base I printed but added holes into the print for the screws.  So far it's holding really well!

Thanks for remarks and advices  :)

I do a lot of threaded holes directly in printed parts where a lot of tightening torque isn't required and where I have a good amount of thread length available. Sometimes you have to experiment with the hole size so that the threads have enough wall thickness to dig into but not so much that they go through the wall into the cavity/infill. For small screws (M2.5 - M4) I usually start with 0.5mm smaller than the nominal bolt size. For applications requiring a lot of tightening torque I embed a metal nut in the part somewhere.

I printed the RC-touring car from Thingiverse and just printed holes. The screws formed their threads by itself. Until now everything is tight fixed. If I have to screw them with higher torque I print a pocket for a hex nut (with pause function you can completely insert it).


Excellent article and subsequent discussion about fastening techniques here:

Be sure to check out the link to Rotite! - for many times use - brass inserts again, great movie :slight_smile:

Best Regards

Thanks, Martin, perfect! Also love the bloopers at the end :)

Yeah, but it must be hard to align these tiny inserts perpendicular to surface.

I still thread pre printed holes in most cases.

Thanks all for comments and solutions, Heated inserts got ma préférence  :)

Moi aussi! Ordering a bunch now...

Thread inserts are not that hard to insert. Because of their conical form they are almost “self-aligning”. We often use them instead of cutted threads in POM-parts. :wink:

Thread inserts are not that hard to insert. Because of their conical form they are almost "self-aligning". We often use them instead of cutted threads in POM-parts. ;)

Just be careful not to breathe those POM fumes!

Don’t worry these are milled parts and I’m only designing them. :wink: manufacturing is done by another department.

Are there POM-materials for FDM?

No, too dangerous, apart from any other considerations I think. I don't know how well it extrudes, bonds, etc.

I guess you’re right. I could imagine that it not bonds very well. :smiley:

Regarding the thread inserts…this video is very interesting. I only knew these “self-cutting” inserts from ENSAT, that we use. But the ones in the video are really cool for FDM parts.

Are there POM-materials for FDM?

I tested it few days ago in China they selling this kind of stuff, layers bonding is ok but POM when thin is very flexible and when become thin is hard as stone overall it warping as crazy and is useless to print even small objects.

Best Regards