Problem with a Horse

Support&troubleshooting
#1

Dear Forum

It's not about the horse, more about what it showed off during ist printing.

​The printer is relatively new, 40h, V04, Firmware 1.0.5 , Z-Suite 1.7.1.

Horse from Thingiverse, ABS,0.09mm, zcode = 36mb.

​Everything was clean by the start off the print.

The Diameter of the filament is Ø1.725.

I didn't assume that the rework would be on that Level.

Is this a normal result?

Honestly I'm a bit nervous, because I don't see the user issue where i can change a Parameter in context with volume ratio/retraction which i assume in context with stringing.

looking Forward to your replies

best regards

Michael

#2

I see the same sorts of issues with Z-ABS.  I'll have to start thinking about alternative printers if this doesn't get fixed soon.

#3

Same here...all my prints look like that now...and it wasn't like that before. It's also a pretty much new V4. This stringing, burning, and blobbing started somewhere around 1.5 or 1.6...

Normally, the M200 would print a sculpture like this flawlessly.

I try to get feedback from Zortrax about the print quality deterioration with the latest Zsuites in another thread. The fact that I don't get a good response makes me nervous...

Try to print it with an older Zsuite version.

0.9.6 seems to be the best in regards to surface quality from what I recall. I want to test that, too...didn't get to it yet.

#4

Yes, try 0.9.6 and see if that remedies the “bits and strings” (I use it religiously). BUT when I do start to see the “bits and strings” with 0.9.6 it typically means I need to clean the nozzle as the smallest impedance changes flow and retraction rates and presto… bits, blobs and strings.

#5

I update firmware and software as they come out. Honestly I can't notice any difference in print quality and the machine has something like 8000 printing hours on it. Clean the nozzle and the tube (ø2mm hole) see if that makes a difference.

#6

Maybe variations of the extruder temperature and/or fan efficiency between different machines could explain that some people observe this degrading of print quality with newer versions while others don't.

Also material quality/age might be a contributor.

While I understand that Zortrax wants to keep Z-Suite as simple as possible, it might be time to reconsider some advanced manual option like retraction settings, better fan speed control or a temperature offset.

#7

Can you get me STL, pleaase?

#8

I appreciate all your answers, the timelack until now is defenitely due to no interest in dealing with the stringing machine on my desk.

Forgot to mention that I also use Sidecovers.

I attached the Horse.stl , it's from thingiverse. But I assume thats nothing abaout the horse, because the other prints are also very stringi, mostly small technical things so there's no deal about it and I can clean the nozzle outside after every print to prevent dark Points on the print surface.

Best Regards

Michael

#9

Legend speaks of tool that can increase retraction. Its symbol is said to look like logs floating in water.

#10

Legend speaks of tool that can increase retraction. Its symbol is said to look like logs floating in water.

I highly doubt that your software would solve that problem, looks more like overheating but I'll check 

#11

Postscript; During the heating Prozess of the nozzle my printer is loosing filament throught the nozzle. If it didn't curl it will be about 4cm until the printbed rises to start printing. I remove this plastic as late as possible with the tweezers. Thought this is normal, isn't it?

Michael

#12

Happens to me all the time.

Marcin is probably right that it’s a temperature problem.

Then again, stringing also happens when the retraction is too small and apart from ZGlass, the retraction used by Z-Suite for all materials and temperatures is very low (0.5mm).

And if the extruder touches the strings, they tend to burn. So IMHO increasing the retraction is at least worth a try even if it might not be the root cause.

#13

I've printed it, literally zero problems with retraction. 

I would start from checking extruder fans (M200 menu -> Maintenance -> Fan test)

#14

Your Horse Looks great, you choose the color wisely! Yet no kid around me likes black toys.

Back to Business, so "somebody" can print this horse nice, also "somebody" show me really nice sampleprints.

Yeah, I bought this Printer (felt like a master hero of the future with my Magic-plastic-box). I print the horse and it looks like shit. It’s a waste of ressources of our planet :confused:

And I felt a little bit pranked by your answer, but you never know how's on the Internet, right.

Printer is plugged in, started and no error message.

There is a spool mounted, the filament is loaded, the pushing gear turns.

The head moves mostly good, left back corner is not good aligned and too thight for myself.

Bed and nozzle heating is working, leveling back:0/0, mid:+0.2, front:0/-0.1

Fans testet, both fan are "working".

So i request some more serious Input, please.

DavidBarwin: I waited for Marcins answer first, but appreciated yours. So i should play an older Firmware on my M200?

What's the task of the Firmware to the actual print? I thought it's like menu's, how many steps= 1mm, Hardware relatet things...(not changeable)

Maybe changing pitch cicle diameter for retraction? =)

conclusion; I Need to solf the strings first. second the dots, if they remain. The burning marks are a causality of these two.

The burning marks i can solf by shielding the nozzle/hotend so the strings cant touch a hot surface.

regards Michael

#15

Time goes by, but yet i'm not wiser. Printquality sucks.

I'm testing, but can't really keep pace with all the software and the new bugs released.

For your amusement i will attach some pictures of my Zortrax ecosystem.

best regards

​Michael

#16

Cool Harps 

How many hours have you use accumulated without cleaning AND replacing the nozzle?

Are you using a Zortax branded nozzle?

My printer has done around 1200 hours and have 3 Zortrax nozzles. When stringing starts on my prints i clean or replace the nozzle - breaths new life into the quality of the printer.  

I did purchase some cheap Chinese nozzles but noticed cracking on my prints. I think because the tips are more pointy (less material) so looses heat faster causing the filament to cool to quickly.  Meh... Buy once, buy twice.  Marcin, can you do a better deal on Zortrax nozzles please? 

#17

Zortrax nozzles are made in China, too, so let's leave that out of the equation. "Cheap nozzles vs Zortrax nozzles".

#18

@MichelB

You shold have in your starter kit two inserts 0.35mm and 0.4mm insert it few times into hot nozzle (Maintenace->Het the extruder ? I have to check at my printer) For me inserting this inserts into nozzle hole solved stringing problem. If this do not help then try to request new nozzle using support form.

#19

Marcin, can you do a better deal on Zortrax nozzles please? 

Bundles, that all can say for now. 

edit: back on the topic - its nozzle or overheating, definitely not normal and could be fixed by cleaning / replacing. 

#20

@MichelB

You shold have in your starter kit two inserts 0.35mm and 0.4mm insert it few times into hot nozzle (Maintenace->Het the extruder ? I have to check at my printer) For me inserting this inserts into nozzle hole solved stringing problem. If this do not help then try to request new nozzle using support form.

Hello Mark

Altought i often read tipps like this in the community, I don't believe in changing new parts in a new printer to other new parts when it's not explainable why the other new parts's not working. Nevermind of course i test your input because I'm desperate.

I poked the nozzle like hell with both pins. Loaded material and the loadingstring looked perfectly (pic 1)

​The testprint after showed visible stringing (pic 2). It was better than others in the past. “outside” Quality good.

​Then I decided to need a little testprint for stringing, draw it, poked the nozzle,  print it (pic 3). I thought this would gonne be a great day!

​Really pleased I startet a print (after poked the nozzle of course) that I should have had already printed… Result wasnt good. The testing goes on in another direction.

​Conclusion: poking the nozzle don’t show a strict coherece to my result, as i discovered already some weeks ago. I can’t see the mechanical background, I’m more on the side of Kant than on the believer. Any measurements or Pictures from “defect” nozzles are welcome to compare.

Can't upload good Pictures because of the space restriction on the forum, like 10 Year ago where discspace was rare, come on guys!