Stuttering noise and misalignment

For the past few prints, I've noticed some weirdness with my M200.  When I start a print, I get a loud stuttering noise for a second or two (like it's trying to move the head but can't since it's already in the corner and it's pushing more into the corner).  When the head finally moves, it seems to be "off".  For example if I try to do bed calibration, it'll stutter then move part way towards the back and it won't align properly with the metal square on the bed.

I've "fixed" it by shutting off the printer, manually moving the head towards the center, and turning it back on and trying again.  Seems to fix the problem for the most part but I'd like to know if this is a bad long term solution and if there is maybe some fix to the stuttering in the first place

For the past few prints, I've noticed some weirdness with my M200.  When I start a print, I get a loud stuttering noise for a second or two (like it's trying to move the head but can't since it's already in the corner and it's pushing more into the corner).  When the head finally moves, it seems to be "off".  For example if I try to do bed calibration, it'll stutter then move part way towards the back and it won't align properly with the metal square on the bed.

I've "fixed" it by shutting off the printer, manually moving the head towards the center, and turning it back on and trying again.  Seems to fix the problem for the most part but I'd like to know if this is a bad long term solution and if there is maybe some fix to the stuttering in the first place

Contact support. I had the same problem and they have a realignment process for you to do. Since then I haven't had any issues.

I will tell you that after I followed the instructions from support I still had a creaking/clicking noise that was driving me crazy. I finally just started going over every nut and bolt and found the problem. The bolts connecting the Z Axis Screw Lead to the build platform had come loose. They're nylock nuts so I don't know how they came loose. I assume it left the factory like that. Either way, easy fix.

Tommy, check the function of the homing switches. You may have a bad switch.

Or the pins that activate the switches could be loose or gone…

Abraham, the mentioned z block screws are loose on purpose. This is to avoid z wobble and binding. You have to loosen them up again. Just enough so that the bearing bock can slide sideways without any up and down play.

They really should put a sticker on the printer saying "do not tighten these screws", because new users are going to keep on doing it.

They really should put a sticker on the printer saying "do not tighten these screws", because new users are going to keep on doing it.

Had I found those before being active on the forum I probably would have tightened them too. There should be a big 'ol sticker that you have to remove before using the printer to make sure people see it. There should also be a full page dedicated to warnings and cautions in the manual like most equipment has.

Thanks everyone - I'll contact support today!

Tommy, check the function of the homing switches. You may have a bad switch.

Or the pins that activate the switches could be loose or gone…

Abraham, the mentioned z block screws are loose on purpose. This is to avoid z wobble and binding. You have to loosen them up again. Just enough so that the bearing bock can slide sideways without any up and down play.

That's strange. I checked my other M200 and the bolts were tight on it. I didn't crank them down, just tightened them till the nut touched the surface.

Now I'm super confused, especially since the crazy creaking/clicking went away when I did it.

I'll take a photo and post it to confirm. Maybe I'm describing it wrong. Maybe not.

The screws circled in green were the ones I tightened.

M200_ZScrew_zps6okpa0l6.jpg

If it works run with it.. They should be  a little loose though.. Just enough for the plate to move side to side.. Not up and down.

The screws circled in green were the ones I tightened.

M200_ZScrew_zps6okpa0l6.jpg

hello guys, those are the screws that I had to tighten
  the first use of the printer

That's the screws, correct. Like Kyle said....they don't have to be "sloppy" loose. Just a tad loose so that the plate of the ball nut can slide in case there is any build up of tension.

The reason is that the z axis system is over defined. There are two rods that have to be perfectly parallel to not bind and then on top there is the ball screw which Is fixed with bearing blocks on top and bottom… So to not build up any tension the ball screw has to be perfectly true in itself when spinning and at the same time perfectly parallel to the two rods. Since the last 2 requirements are more difficult to ensure in a production process considering screw run out tolerances and parallel alignment accuracy, it makes sense to keep this joint at the platform “flexible” to absorb the tolerances by allowing the ball nut to slide or “self align”.

That does not mean that every printer will automatically bind or wobble when you completely tighten the screws…you might have a good enough screw run out and alignment so that it doesn’t matter. And even if there is tension build up you might not notice it since the stepper can overcome a certain amount of friction. But this might increase wear slightly.

It’s up to you…we have been told several times by the lead engineer (Martin) that the screws should not be totally tight and like I explained above…it makes sense.

The only printer that can have tight screws is the V2 … Its lead screw is not fixed on the top.

Thanks everyone.