[Tips & Tricks] Warping issue solution


#1

[Tips & Tricks] Warping issue solution v1.0

 

Symptoms: Raft structure deforms from the platform

 

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SOLUTION:

 

  1. Disconnect the connectors from the platform.

 

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2. Prepare Allen key number 2 - the key can be found in the set that came with the printer.

 

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3. Unscrew screws from the perforated platform.

 

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  1. Remove material remains using a cloth.

 

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  1. Remove material remains from the bottom part of perforated plate using spatula.

 

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  1. Using sandpaper (150-400 grit), wipe the perforated platform several times until the surface will be matte.

 

    WARNING: Be careful not to damage the connector.

 

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  1. Using a vacuum cleaner or compressor to clean the perforated platform with residues.

 

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  1. Using a cloth with acetone, clean your perforated platform.

 

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  1. How to prepare Z-ABS juice:
  • prepare a metal or glass container/bottle that can be closed
  • prepare acetone
  • prepare Pure White Z-ABS, you can also use a raft and support
  • pliers

Cut the pieces Pure White Z-ABS or raft/support and put them into a container.

 

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Fill the container with acetone, and wait for about 2-3 hours, mixing from time to time.

 

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After 2-3 hours, Z-ABS should be dissolved, forming a slurry-like milk.

 

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                                                       After 1h

 

10. Bend perforated platform as on the pictures.

 

WARNING: Do not use too much strength.

 

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11. Mount the perforated platform.

 

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12. Place the platform on the printer and connect the wires.[/size]

 

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13. Level the build plate: Use the autocalibration option or do it manually - http://youtu.be/iKOIyPcaD-M

 

  1. Upon completion of leveling platform, turn on the printer and wait until the platform will be hot. Then, using a cloth, apply several layers of juice Z-ABS on the platform.

 

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Done!


#2

I like this solution, it seems to be nice and simple, and we all love the "KISS" method.


#3

Thanks Rafal. This is great!


#4

Great, glad to see the scuffing go into the official policy. Be sure to sand lightly - you don't want to remove the nickel plating from the conductive sensing areas of the PCB. I think a fresh Scotch-Brite scouring pad may work as well as sandpaper but YMMV.

Personally I prefer Elmer's glue stick (stationery store grade, not "school grade") to the ABS slurry. Usually I just scrape the dried glue off between prints with the spatula, but once in a while I give it a thorough water wash.


#5

Why this film is private??

 

PS. Thx Zortrax for this oficial solution :smiley:


#6

great post!!! thanks a lot Rafal :)


#7

@Rafal - What should the consistency / viscosity of the ABS slurry be. As thin as milk?

Thanks,

-J


#8

Consistency should be like a milk or even denser.


#9

I would say yes.. When it looks cloudy its good.


#10
I've been use it thinner with good results.
I think is just an anchor.
 
Fifteen years ago I blow-up some photos on glass.
To apply photosensitive gelatin over glass you need to prepare the surface in order to have good adhesion. 
This is done cleaning thoroughly the glass with detergent and hot water and applying a first layer of eatable gelatin at 10% dilution.
Only when this thin layer is dried you can apply the photosensitive gelatin. The diluted first layer act as an anchor.
I think is the same with the abs slurry. You don't need it to be thick. Just to be the first and over a clean surface.

#11

Tried this and it worked.

Wondering - how often do you do the whole procedure? how often just sanding and acetone? how often just the ABS slurry?

Thanks!


#12

@ Julia - is there a reason you prefer the glue? Does the slurry build up on the platform with each successive print? Im putting it on before each print and kind of fearing that might happen..


#13

@ Julia - is there a reason you prefer the glue? Does the slurry build up on the platform with each successive print? Im putting it on before each print and kind of fearing that might happen..

I know I'm not Julia but I use elmers purple disappearing glue on my afinia and it applies much more even and quickly then abs slurry, Not 

to mention you have to deal with ratios to get a consistent slurry and the glue is water soluble so it washes off much easier.


#14

What Techbuilder said. Gluestick is just a lot more convenient imo and for me works fine. I made the slurry once or twice and find it a hassle, both mixing/dissolving and cleaning.


#15

Tried this and it worked.

Wondering - how often do you do the whole procedure? how often just sanding and acetone? how often just the ABS slurry?

Thanks!

Sanding - once

Gluestick - before every print

Scrape perfboard with scraper - after every print

Wash with water - every 4-6 prints

Wipe with acetone - after wash with water

Remove perfboard and scrape underside - if notice clicking or abnormally thin raft layers appearing on parts of bed.


#16

Rafal and Julia thanks for these tips!

I observed that sometimes nozzle is dirty in the remains of glue which burns and clog nozzle, did you had a similar problem? Currently, I use abs juice and I have no problem with the nozzle clogging ...


#17
I observed that sometimes nozzle is dirty in the remains of glue which burns and clog nozzle, did you had a similar problem?

It sometimes happen - thats why we do not recommend to using glue. Z-ABS juice is sufficient in most cases.


#18

The juice of the Z-abs how long it can be stored?


#19

I store my ABS juice in an old glass bottle. I have it for a few months now and I guess it will last for many more. So don’t worry. :wink:


#20

Great, glad to see the scuffing go into the official policy. Be sure to sand lightly - you don't want to remove the nickel plating from the conductive sensing areas of the PCB. I think a fresh Scotch-Brite scouring pad may work as well as sandpaper but YMMV.

Personally I prefer Elmer’s glue stick (stationery store grade, not “school grade”) to the ABS slurry. Usually I just scrape the dried glue off between prints with the spatula, but once in a while I give it a thorough water wash.