The first time my new board reached over 200Ëš I figured it was a fluke.
It did it again today.
Same as the first time it happened, I unloaded filament and then got busy so when I got back to the machine the board temp was over 200ËšF.
I am thinking it is a glitch of some sort because when I started a print the board didn't heat up, it cooled down and now is running around 150Ëš or so. ----Just checked it and it is running at 214-220Ëš during the print.
I was under impression it is suppose to run 160-180Ëš?
Anyone know what the proper board temp is?
I guess it could be possible that as the holes get loaded up with plastic the board temp reduces which would make the new boards seem like they run hotter but it just seems off to me.
I am woking on an extra long print 2 days so after that I will take the board set up off and check the sensors.
Thought I would ask if there were any issues like this before for reference.
My guess is that you are using an infrared thermometer. If this is the case, you have to keep in mind that the thermal emissivity is different for different surfaces, so they will give different readings. With even mid-range thermometers you should be able to change the emissivity value, but this of course assumes that you know what it is (should be easy to google).
Well you are right about that; at different angels I get different temperatures on the silver areas. (my bad)
But the constant temp is over 200Ëš +.
I checked all the connections and capacitors and all seems well. The only thing different is the new board.
Just curious if all new boards act this way or if my old board was just under heating and that this is the proper temp.
When it heats the bed it continues with the print when the bed reaches 150 but then mine keeps heating. The max I saw in 3 hrs was 234. Now doing another 3hr print and will continue to check.
The raft was a pain to remove as it seem to melt too much into the board. Print came out perfect though. lol
I did change the Kapton tape and adjust the wires under the Kapton tape and the new print is going at 180Ëš.
Did you try to put your previos V1 perf board to check if temp is normal ? (it should be the same, I agree there is something wrong with sensor - defect or location -, but it's an easy test to find what to identify what to fix)
No Laurent I didn't take the V2 off and put the V1 on. I figured with all the peeps on here offering advice and Z, that someone would know the normal temp of the Heat plate.
I guess I was wrong because not one person has said what the normal temperature range is for the Heat plate--1 or 2.
So, no biggie. I apparently fixed the issue myself and have deduced that the normal range is around 160Ëš.
I did not realised you were also interested in V1 temp, sorry. Mine mesured with a low quality IR temp sensor, is around 82°C on white area, which is I think arround 180°F
I don't believe their should be too much difference between the V1 and the V2 board temps. They should be pretty much the same.
I would understand they would be different with different material profiles....or atleast they should be from my understanding. But then again, I don't understand much. :lol: :lol: :lol: :D
The board should have around 100Ëš C. If it has more than 100, you should check your heatbed if it's working and heating properly. Generally it depends more from the bed, than from the board itself.
The board should have around 100Ëš C. If it has more than 100, you should check your heatbed if it's working and heating properly. Generally it depends more from the bed, than from the board itself.
Regards,
Chris
Well that sucks. lol
It was working at 230Ëšf plus but now I changed the kapton tape on the bottom it is running around 160Ëšf.
At first my rafts were melting to the plate to the extent of not being able to get the material off the bed-almost like fused and now my rafts are lifting up even with glue. UGH!
So I haven't a clue what to look at next. I am guessing it has to do with the sensor in under the caption tape.
Do you think the sensor should be replaced? Or maybe just rearranged where it is at?
Update. Well I took the tape off and I moved the wires away from the board because they were flat against it. Now I am getting 180Ëš which is much better but back down to a bit over 160 during the print. One of these times it will be perfect. hahah
Do you notice that you have been listing the temps you are seeing in "Fahrenheit" and everyone else including the Zortrax help is responding in "Celsius" and your numbers are very close to within the operating range, the temps your machine is running seem to be about right.
The shrink and subsequent warping are most likely due to too much environmental cooling, do you have side covers and are you in a warm room?
Also as the raft lifts and the part continues to be built the layers will be "mechanically" compressed into one another causing the "impossible" removal of said raft.
I would recommend that you apply more adhesive to the build plate, either ABS dissolved in Acetone or as I have found works great Elmer's washable school glue stick, disappearing purple.
Yes I understand that I use F and they use C but being as 100c is 212f the range my board is running at isn't even close.
Yes. I have had side covers since the 2nd month I got the machine.
I use glue-elmers-and have used glue for a long time now. I use more than I should and don't usually have an issue. I believe it has to do with the sensor in the heat plate itself because it would not heat before and I would have to push on the Kapton tape that is over the sensor but now being as it should be 100c and I am running 71c I think I need to address it.
Well I think I found out the issue with my heat bed. Not happy bout it but it is what it is. Still not at 100Ëšc though.
Like I said I would occasionally have to press on the Kapton tape to get the heater to work. Well I pulled out the thermistor that was under the tape and the copper wire at the thermistor was cracked-barely holding on...until I went to put it back in and then it broke. Ugh!
So I had a 100k thermistor fro another project I am working on and being as I need to get a print done, I installed that. The heat bed immediately heated and is now running around 82Ëšc which is what it has been running at.
I would like to put the original size thermistor back in there, so if anyone has a clue on what that is. I would appreciate the info.
Its a small thermistor. I would show you mine that I broke but it fell under my print chair roller. lol Glad it wasn't a good one. :o
The Zortrax one was about half the size of the 100k thermistor.
Elsewhere on the forum Julia and at least one other member referred to the temperature sensor as a thermocouple, and others have called the sensor a thermistor so it seemed like a good idea to pin down exactly what kind of sensor is being used for temperature feedback.
Chris - if you are reading this, can you please clarify?