I had the same problems from the first print.
- Raft: was melted to the part or better, the part was melted into the raft completely. Not even a cutterblade helped detaching them. I usually ended up just cutting around the part and keeping the raft hidden under it.
- Stringing: parts with lots of retraction and small printed surfaces (ie. lots of thin pillars) were printed full of strings
- Blobs: all printed parts where full of blobs on the outside. Lucky enough most of them were easy to remove by slightly nudging them.
- Burns: white Z-ABS prints where a nightmare, all looked like dalmatians.
- printing Z-ABS at Z-HIPS temps worked fine for me with Z-Suite 0.9.x (not recommended, I used it just to pinpoint the problem on 1 single print)
- not drying the filament (ie. keeping it unprotected around the room) works somewhat
- adding fans to cool the too hot plastic (carefully as too much airflow will cause warping)
- keeping the middle of the perf board (place measured before print) 0.1-0.2 higher than the rest of the plate)
- insulating the extruder PCB from the heat of the hotend and stepper motor***
In my case the temperature of hotend was about 15-20C higher (as read using a thermocouple) compared to what the printer believed it was (read using multimeter on printer's signal line).
*** The extruder PCB has a thermocouple conditioning chip that uses its own temperature reading to offset measured temperature. This chip should have the exact same temperature as the spot on the PCB where the thermocouple wires are attached. Instead the plastic cover right under this chip has a hole positioned so that more heat creeps towards it than it really should.
I measured in my case a temperature difference of ~11C only from this problem. Combined with normal part tolerances and wiring losses, it sums up to the mentioned total of 20C.