I recently start to use a spool of Zortrax Z-Abs pure black and I have started to have problems to separate the part from raft compared to natural Abs.
The more the part is thin the more it is difficult.
Well I found out a little trick that helps a lot:
Just put everything in the freezer for some minutes or spray it with a gas duster upside down (beware some have butane and therefore are VERY flamable) .
Interesting, what I normally do is get the palette provided in between the parts and push hard to separate them. Tends to work fine but sometimes they get stucked either way and other times I cut my finger so I appreciate you sharing your technique.
I do the same thing with difficult raft removal except I use and ice pack. I just place the raft with parts attached in the ice pack for about five minutes and then use my trust Zortrax scraper.
You can download the parts you need from Thingiverse for the second fan and you can get a fan on eBay you will need a 40 millimeter fan I recommend getting a good fan with ball bearings that will last longer
You can download the parts you need from Thingiverse for the second fan and you can get a fan on eBay you will need a 40 millimeter fan I recommend getting a good fan with ball bearings that will last longer
Cheers Clark.
I used the twin mount from Thingiverse and a genuine Z fan.
Difference in a tiny gear I've been struggling with is profound.
I have Zortrax M200 about month, printed ABS, now tried black Z-Ultrat, first problem - impossible to remove raft from model. With ABS I didn't have such problems.
I have Zortrax M200 about month, printed ABS, now tried black Z-Ultrat, first problem - impossible to remove raft from model. With ABS I didn't have such problems.
Any ideas?
Maybe you accidentally used .zcode that was generated with Z-ABS profile instead with a Z-ULTRAT profile?
I cannot remember any difficulties when using Z-ULTRAT compared to Z-ABS.