I need to print parts in higher z-Layer Resolution 40/50 micron. How can I do this?
Wait for Soon-day. In other words, the M200 will probably never print at 50µ resolution. Zortrax claimed that it would be available at some point in the future in their promotional literature around a year ago but have since rescinded the claim.
Thanks for the info.
These are not good news.....
The mechanics of the printer allows small resolutions.
I did not want to do it, but now I have no other choice - I'm going to install a new mainboard - Duet v0.8.5
Open source is always the better way......so I'll make the necessary modifications itself and then use the normal G-Code.
Hi
I think the Zortrax software/firmware is as important as the quite good m200 hardware to achieve the print quality. Engineers did quite a good job optimising the pair. So if you you change the controller board, it may be quite long to tweak your open source stack (firmware + software) to reach the same level.
Why don’t you sell your M200 and buy an Ultimaker 2 instead ? M200 can be sold at a good price and an UM2 is advertised as a 25 microns capable printer. Moreover, you’ll benefit from their existing community.
Last point, based on my experience, Duet is quite a good board, but for a cartesian printer, only the ethernet part is interresting compared to 8bit controllers. If you want 32bits, RADDS may be a better alternative, because you’ll be able to use easily 128 microstep capable drivers.
But good luck, that’s an interesting project.
Laurent
Hi Laurent,
We have long used the UM 2. Here's the extruder is the problem. The prints are unclean, so that the advantage of the low z-resolution is lost. Therefore I'll try to combine the good mechanical properties of the M800 with my own software. We work very intensiev in CAD / CAM software range, so software development and electronics is only a small problem. Good hardware much more difficult for us to build. Course would be best Zortrax would deliver the promised resolution 25-50μm itself. Life could be so beautifully simple - but it is not .....
Frank
So it perfectly makes sense :) !
I am not a big fan of bowden extruder setup either. It can be changed on UM2 to something better, but that’s not the place to talk about that.
Again, good luck !
Laurent
if you require such small resolutions then you are wrong looking for them in FDM...
Hi Laurent,
We have long used the UM 2. Here's the extruder is the problem. The prints are unclean, so that the advantage of the low z-resolution is lost. Therefore I'll try to combine the good mechanical properties of the M800 with my own software. We work very intensiev in CAD / CAM software range, so software development and electronics is only a small problem. Good hardware much more difficult for us to build. Course would be best Zortrax would deliver the promised resolution 25-50μm itself. Life could be so beautifully simple - but it is not .....
Frank
I would suggest that you buy a bondtech extruder to your Ultimaker and your past problems will be solved. http://www.bondtech.se/testimonials/
Thanks for the info. The bondtech extruder is an interesting part - I'm going to mark it for me. The problem with the UM2 extruder is primary not the compressive force, but the uneven flow of the filament. The mechanical attachment of the PTFE tube is too bad especially on Hotend side, the outer shell of the tube is deformed when pressure changes. The material flows with an indefinite delay from the nozzle. At fine resolutions just this leads to problems. Direct extruder do not have these problems, but because of their weight they need a solid xy-motion mechanics. But I think this is the wrong place to discuss these issues - yet again thanks!
if you require such small resolutions then you are wrong looking for them in FDM...
I have seen some great prints at 50 microns on FDM machines. Why would FDM be wrong for that? Zortrax could do that very well and FDM can beat fluid printers in some ways. I had a Form 1+, have a MiiCraft and a big DLP machine - I HATE removing those support beams and spending hours on sanding the spots and cleaning everything from suspected carcinogenic sticky goo. Objet is best (in my opinion) for small high detailed prints but printing with those is a bit out of budget for some people.
Oh and I was also disappointed about the lower layers settings getting dropped even though they were promised but I must admit I did not print a lot of models at 90 microns. I also wanted PLA that isn't going to happen and dare I mention it: W*I*F*I* --> sorry ;)
Thanks for the info. The bondtech extruder is an interesting part - I'm going to mark it for me. The problem with the UM2 extruder is primary not the compressive force, but the uneven flow of the filament. The mechanical attachment of the PTFE tube is too bad especially on Hotend side, the outer shell of the tube is deformed when pressure changes. The material flows with an indefinite delay from the nozzle. At fine resolutions just this leads to problems. Direct extruder do not have these problems, but because of their weight they need a solid xy-motion mechanics. But I think this is the wrong place to discuss these issues - yet again thanks!
Yea, those other issues with bowden setups i can't help you with. Sorry.
Oh and I was also disappointed about the lower layers settings getting dropped even though they were promised but I must admit I did not print a lot of models at 90 microns. I also wanted PLA that isn't going to happen and dare I mention it: W*I*F*I* --> sorry ;)
Printing PLA with the Zortrax™ M200® 3D Printer and Z-Temp™ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VUr7MPeyxK8
http://www.3dprinterworld.com/article/z-temp-offers-greater-filament-options-for-zortrax-m200
:lol:
LMAO! :D
But the pic shows a temp most probably too hot for most PLA filaments (just an info for the morons that claim that a z-temp has no temp display) :ph34r:
LMAO! :D
But the pic shows a temp most probably too hot for most PLA filaments (just an info for the morons that claim that a z-temp has no temp display) :ph34r:
The pic is just a still photo. In the video of printing you can see it is 190-230º :)
The pic is just a still photo. In the video of printing you can see it is 190-230º :)
Ohh, i did not watch the video. Told in another post that I'm in holiday mode and of course that's not the time to watch videos about dangerous printing. :ph34r:
But good to know how easy it is to be informed what temp one is printing with at any time. :)
:lol: :lol: :lol: :D :D
:P
I shall forever speak of it in emoticons only!
Or else I will be spanked by the admin for SPAMMING!