Hello everyone,
I have a problem with the hotend V2, the thread where is screwed the nozzle is ruined, I wanted to know if Zortrax sells as spare parts
You can use the V1 block ( I have done this before) or order a new hotted and keep the rest of the broken one for parts.
ok, but I wanted to avoid spending 80 euro for a new hotend, I think that will solve by putting a Helicol M6
Helicoil will result in some additional thermal resistance between heating element and nozzle. Worth a try, but something to watch for.
it would take a little 'flexibility spare parts,
a most complete catalog, many details are missing from the spare parts
the problem of zortrax is that do not exist in the official store spare parts, such as timing belts, switches or wiring, and often not even respond if contacted, under this aspect are not very efficient. Helicoil is of stainless steel, as regards the transmission of heat, there should be no problems, in any case, it is the most economical solution, to solve the problem. ;)
for spare parts see this link http://www.crea-3d.com/store/en/54-zortrax
the problem of zortrax is that do not exist in the official store spare parts, such as timing belts, switches or wiring, and often not even respond if contacted, under this aspect are not very efficient. Helicoil is of stainless steel, as regards the transmission of heat, there should be no problems, in any case, it is the most economical solution, to solve the problem. ;)
for spare parts see this link http://www.crea-3d.com/store/en/54-zortrax
thanks. molto utile 
Thermal conductivity of stainless steel is approximately 15% (or 85% less than) aluminum at 200 deg C.
Thermal conductivity of stainless steel is approximately 15% (or 85% less than) aluminum at 200 deg C.
yes is true, ok I try with Helicoil, and I misure the temperature on the nozzle after and before the application of Helicoil.
Just try the helicoil and see if it gives you any heating issues, rather than worrying theoretically.
After all, the aluminium block is buggered anyway, you've got nothing to lose.
The hot block is not that difficult to make on your own if you have access to a few machine tools, it only has a couple of tapped holes, M6 and M3 and then a couple of close clearance holes.
I carved one up in about 30 minutes for my other printer and it works great, you could also give the block to a local machine shop and they might help you out.
Also if there is a local “Hacker Space” near you, you might be able to make one there too.
Thanks for the advice, I also thought I had to do it, maybe improving it, some parts, such as the threads are not the best for realization.
I will try with Helicoil and I will keep you updated
Hello to all,
I mounted helicoil and works very well, I think it will modify also the V1 hotend