Any tips/tricks for printing Z-Glass and Z-HIPS?

I haven't done much printing with either of these materials, but had 2 bad first-impressions:

Z-Glass print failed after 10 minutes.

- Scenario (as best as I can remember): Printing 2 cylinders, .7" in DIA, 4" tall, 0.14mm Z-Height

- Problem: Just stopped extruding, as if the nozzle jammed.

Z-HIPS support material was bonded to model.

- Scenario (as best as I can remember): Printing a generic fist-sized object w, overhangs that required support material coming from part.

Problem: Print support coming off the model was bonded as well as the actual part layers. (not possible to remove without significant work)

Just wondering:

- is anyone on this forum is experiencing similar issues?

- does anyone have any "tips and tricks" to get these materials working?

Thanks.

Had problems with Z-Glass.. Clogged every time. (new hot end is in the works to fix this)

Z-HIPS I have not had problems with yet. Not much printing with support though..

Z-Glass won't work unless on certain models with some very strange to determine conditions.

Z-Hips bonding issues will be solved on 0.097 Sw.

After all why need to print in Z-ABS, Z-ULTRAT, Z-HIPS, or Z-GLASS

If it's possible to solve everything with the incredible and perfect PLA, it's used even for inyection molding! haha

For 10 prints Z-Glass clogged 6-7 times, but finally I got what I wanted,

when I heard characteristic motor-rack clicking sound I knew it was clogged, stopped printing, made unload procedure, cut deformated ending, and loaded again without any cleaning procedure,

it always worked fine (sometimes need to help with pushing filament until motor-rack clicking stops = melted/clogged material went further and leaked from the nozzle as it should).

You can sit near printer and pause printing as fast as you hear motor clicking sound, to unload-load filament and continue part printing (don't have to remove old part and start from the beginning),

if u have time and patience.

With Z-HIPS I just had to spend much more time for raft/support cleaning, I almost lost my fingers with knife, but I was determined,

I don't use side panels while printing with Z-HIPS.

Can somebody tell me the benefit of HIPS? Is it actually noticeably stronger/more impact resistant than abs/ultra t? How about flexibility? I want to get some, but it's pricy so just want to make sure it'd be worth it.

Sorry for the Hijack.  

According to the material sheets from Zortrax:

Z-ABS:  2250 psi "tensile strength", 82 ksi "Young's modulus"

Z-ULTRAT: 3500 psi "tensile strength",  120 ksi "Young's modulus"

Z-HIPS: 4900 psi "tensile yield",  327 ksi "tensile modulus"

Z-GLASS: 11000 psi "tensile strength at break", 597 ksi "flexural modulus"

The format of the sheets has changed between the different materials, so it isn't clear that the numbers mean exactly the same thing or were tested in the same way. But those figures suggest that Z-HIPS is about twice as strong and four times as stiff as Z-ABS, with Z-ULTRAT in the middle. Z-GLASS, which is glass fiber filled, is twice as strong yet, and somewhat stiffer (flexural modulus will typically be higher than tensile modulus). 

Thanks for the numbers, though I'd have to say that I am very confused by their use of terminology. 'Tensile strength' sounds like they're talking about 'ultimate stress', 'Tensile yield' sounds like they're talking about 'yield stress', and 'tensile strength at break' means that they're talking about 'failure stress.' With the ambiguity of how they're worded, I suppose that they could be talking about the same thing (lost in translation?), but as its stated those are all different values so they cannot be directly compared. 

For the sake of argument if we assume that there was just an issue in translation (a rather large assumption), then it definitely looks like HIPS is significantly higher. Does it seem to suffer from delamination?

Thanks for the responses guys.

Unfortunately, judging by my (admittedly limited) experience using these new materials, and the experience of those above, it seems Zortrax prematurely released these materials.

Which is quite disappointing.

Thanks for the tips.

It's good to know sitting by the printer, tending to (highly likely) clogs is a possible solution,

unfortunately as you mention it's not really something I have the patience for.

:wacko:

For 10 prints Z-Glass clogged 6-7 times, but finally I got what I wanted,

when I heard characteristic motor-rack clicking sound I knew it was clogged, stopped printing, made unload procedure, cut deformated ending, and loaded again without any cleaning procedure,

it always worked fine (sometimes need to help with pushing filament until motor-rack clicking stops = melted/clogged material went further and leaked from the nozzle as it should).

You can sit near printer and pause printing as fast as you hear motor clicking sound, to unload-load filament and continue part printing (don't have to remove old part and start from the beginning),

if u have time and patience.

With Z-HIPS I just had to spend much more time for raft/support cleaning, I almost lost my fingers with knife, but I was determined,

I don't use side panels while printing with Z-HIPS.

Well they are supposed to have a new hot end for the Zglass issue but I was told it would be out in a week and that was over a month ago. Grrrrr!

 

As for the Hips bonding to the support, check the nozzle fan. I suspect it may be out because that is what I found happens when I printed Zhips and it bonded together- my fan wasn't working.  

I'm on the the third fan for the nozzle. Just hoping it won't be four soon but only time will tell.

Can somebody tell me the benefit of HIPS? Is it actually noticeably stronger/more impact resistant than abs/ultra t? How about flexibility? I want to get some, but it's pricy so just want to make sure it'd be worth it.

Sorry for the Hijack.  

I used Zhips for a shelf bracket and it is holding nicely with no bending or breaks. Though I have to use a different wallboard hooks because the weight is pulling the screw through the plaster but thats an easy fix and the brackets  are still sound.

Cheers

I used Zhips for a shelf bracket and it is holding nicely with no bending or breaks. Though I have to use a different wallboard hooks because the weight is pulling the screw through the plaster but thats an easy fix and the brackets  are still sound.

Cheers

Just print some.. lol

I have printed two sets of parts (around 10 hours each) with Z-glass and I've had 50/50 luck.  The first try for each print failed at the 5mm height or so.  The second try on each part printed perfectly.  This material doesn't delaminate like ABS and its translucent property makes the prints look even better.  The prints are a lot stronger between layers.  Its much more difficult to remove the raft though... nearly impossible for some small parts.  However, I love the results when everything works.

My tip for Z-Glass. Don't use it! Until Z offer a way to print it reliably. Z-HIPS seems to work fine, at least for me.

I guess I'm the only one who hasn't had problems getting prints to finish with Z-Glass - the ones I've tried have all worked so far. Unlike Tshuetc, though, I find the layer bonding to be quite weak compared with other materials.

I was able to do one print in Zglass and I loved the quality and look. But that was the only one I was able to print.

All the others I have tried to print failed.

After 10% it just printed air and ended up having to drill out the material. 

I was told their would be a new hot end unit available soon to fix the issue with Zglass but That was so long ago i was told that, that I have given up hope. lol

 Maybe someday.

I guess I'm the only one who hasn't had problems getting prints to finish with Z-Glass - the ones I've tried have all worked so far. Unlike Tshuetc, though, I find the layer bonding to be quite weak compared with other materials.

Yeah that is odd. I've tried it on 2 machines with exactly the same results both times. Admittedly I have only tried one roll though.