Best aftermarket filament

Hey guys!

I've been using Z-ABS for over a year now and it's awesome (obviously). I've got a huge project coming up and unfortunately I really need pink and purple ABS. Can anyone suggest a the best/most compatible brand of filament for the M200? I've tried searching other threads but couldn't find anything - sorry if this has already been discussed!

Haha you couldn't find anything? It is not allowed to use aftermarket filament so naturally nobody discusses that here or uses mods to make that possible. :D

Haha you couldn't find anything? It is not allowed to use aftermarket filament so naturally nobody discusses that here or uses mods to make that possible. :D

Yeah I understand where you;re coming from but a while ago it was being discussed and the post is gone. And I understand that it's discouraged and you can void your warranty (my warranty is over) which is why im looking for alternative options. not my fault zortrax wont produce pink and purple :( i;m just looking for some help

If you don't have any warranty left you could buy z-temp and use alot off another brands off ABS ect. 

Sorry I was joking.. Posts like that seem to go missing more. But on topic: high temperature ABS should work, there are some more of these lately. And maybe try HIPS profile, that has a lower temp setting I believe. But only if you have no more warranty ;)

i heard that smartABS works well. But i don't know which Z-Filament-Profile you have to use for that, i could ask...

Adrien, have you heard of the Z-Temp mod? If not it's worth looking in to as it opens up the potential of PLA and places like Faberdashery. 

Usual caveats of a void warranty and lack of support apply. 

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No ofcourse not :)

I did hear the Z-ABS red can look a bit pink when printing but I think that's only because of the LED lights. But isn't it possible to just buy a spray can? Also makes the models a bit better looking, you don't have to coat them too much..

http://support.zortrax.com/home/designing-post-processing/post-processing/I follow this manual for painting since it my models have any color which I need and injection moulded outlook

I don't like the idea of painting my pinkish parts to red, especially when I print multicolor it's impossible.

And printed parts looks way better sanded and coated with transparent spray paint than color painted IMHO.

No ofcourse not :)

I did hear the Z-ABS red can look a bit pink when printing but I think that's only because of the LED lights. But isn't it possible to just buy a spray can? Also makes the models a bit better looking, you don't have to coat them too much..

I'm developing a project that has a lot of moving parts and tight tolerances (which is why the zortrax is great) but at the same time that makes painting parts an issue :( Thanks for your help though!

Adrien, have you heard of the Z-Temp mod? If not it's worth looking in to as it opens up the potential of PLA and places like Faberdashery. 

Usual caveats of a void warranty and lack of support apply. 

Yeah I've had a few people suggest this to me. Yeah my warranty is definitely over! Have you had any experience with the z-temp?

It's the Bomb!

makes the M200 the Ultimate printer!

Just printed with plastic wax (Moldlay), what opens the printer to prepare your models for investment cast.

(BTW, m200 out of warranty.)

It's the Bomb!

makes the M200 the Ultimate printer!

I even think Zortrax should be the biggest Z-Temp customer of all!

Imagine how easy testing / debugging of new software releases and filament material could be, testing a printout with changing temps in realtime (while watching the temp measurement on a multimeter) without any reslice or software change.

But they are located in a very catholic part of this planet and we just started to talk about the devil...  :ph34r:

Just printed with plastic wax (Moldlay), what opens the printer to prepare your models for investment cast.

(BTW, m200 out of warranty.)

I just had a look at a Moldlay video. They claim you can put the mould in a standard oven at 270ºC (?). I doubt you will get good result as the mould surely will crack due to expansion of the wax material. When using wax in investment casting you either autoclave or flash burn the wax out to avoid cracking. The temp. should be near to 1000ºC. (shell investment casting). The principle is that you melt the outer layer of the wax part before the rest starts to expand, thus avoiding cracking. In other words, if you want "crack free" moulds, you need to burn away the wax material.

Yeah I've had a few people suggest this to me. Yeah my warranty is definitely over! Have you had any experience with the z-temp?

Not myself, my printer is new a month ago so im waiting until i get the experimenting itch, but as the posts above echo i have only read great things about it, i wil without a doubt be purchasing it soon.

I just had a look at a Moldlay video. They claim you can put the mould in a standard oven at 270ºC (?). I doubt you will get good result as the mould surely will crack due to expansion of the wax material. When using wax in investment casting you either autoclave or flash burn the wax out to avoid cracking. The temp. should be near to 1000ºC. (shell investment casting). The principle is that you melt the outer layer of the wax part before the rest starts to expand, thus avoiding cracking. In other words, if you want "crack free" moulds, you need to burn away the wax material.

I really don't have intention to do this on a house oven. I like the ability to have the wax model made by myself but the rest i'll let who have the right tools do the job. I'm printing some test models I plan to cast in copper at a real casting facility. What I have to test is if Moldlay is reliable in the real world. I don't have time for naive tech (standard oven). "Render unto Caesar".