I suppose that the printer is designed to operate at 20° Celsius but is there a "magical" room temperature that brings better results , less warping ,easier raft removal?
It would be interesting if someone has notice differences in same print done with different room temperature .
I hope isn’t 20c, this is winter temperature here. What means AC all the time.
I suppose that the printer is designed to operate at 20° Celsius but is there a "magical" room temperature that brings better results , less warping ,easier raft removal?
It would be interesting if someone has notice differences in same print done with different room temperature .
Actually your question is comparable to someone asking what would be the best room temperature to cool vegetables in a fridge.
What it is about is: What is the best temp inside the fridge to cool vegetables and how to prevent the room temperature to influence that temp.
In other words: Work on getting the best temperature inside the printer and shield it against influence from outside, that's why PRO systems have heated chambers.
When doing that you have to be aware of the parts temp limits inside the M200, namely the steppers and the electronics (TC controller).
But everything about it is already written in the forum.
Z-Renegade,
your answer demostrate that you have no idea about how works a fridge.
If you knew , you would had take another example.
And finally you did not answer to my question that was not about heated chamber.
BTW If room temperature is too low , the fridge will not cool your vegetables .
lucamac,
I answered your question, you just did not get the answer: There's no such thing as a magical room temperature for printing results, since if you consider room temperature you have to consider some more factors that influence your printing results (having an open chamber).
The function of a fridge: Cool the chamber inside and isolate it from the outside.
That's all one have to know about the function of a fridge in this discussion.
Maybe on trying to interpret more than this leads to your original question or last response, anyway no more knowledge is needed. Of course every device has defined temp environment conditions, true for the fridge, for the printer, for me also. This discussion get's too low tempered (minded) therefore I quit.
This thread really helped everyone in the forums learn something....
Hi lucamac,
I have found the ambient “room” temperature as a very important factor in case of model’s shrinking level for long prints. The printer will create its own temperature inside the printing volume if you have covers. But the top is still open, so outside temperature will affect this inside temperature. I had a problem once with softening the filament, but there were 42!°C within the room (summer). So I would say everything between 35 and 40°C is good for a print quality. Problems starts if you need to remove supports in this room temperature. Just prepare some towels for your body, otherwise you will end up with wet floor 
This thread really helped everyone in the forums learn something....
I respect your opinion .
But I was interested to know if and how room temperature affects the M200 operation.
i.e. if there was a minimal room temperature for using the Zortrax M200.
Do you think that the M200 will print in every room temperature conditions ?
I do not think so and in my opinion it would be interesting what would be the limit room temperatures as well as the recommended or "best" one.
As you know Abs fumes are not the best for our health so I keep the M200 away from were I stay in a non heated room, temperature actually is 13 ° and in the next weeks will reach 4 - 5 ° , when shall I move the M200 or heat the room ?
A friend of mine ask me if the M200 will continue to work properly in a lab where room temperature is always below 10° C.
So guys , things can be different for your actual environment where you might have all year more or less the same room temperature as Venosa who leaves in Rio.
@ Z-Renegade, I hope that what I wrote above have clear my point of view , if not, it means that you probably thinks that the M200 will print perfectly in any room temperature from absolute zero to sun suface temp.
For me Zortrax for huge models always prints best at summer without AC when room temperature is 27C+ I think more is better 10C can cause delayeration or excessive warping more important question is about size and geometry of printed objects if is about small models and figurines then don’t worry about temperature if you want to print huge models then move M200 to at least 20C room
I suppose that the printer is designed to operate at 20° Celsius but is there a "magical" room temperature that brings better results , less warping ,easier raft removal?
It would be interesting if someone has notice differences in same print done with different room temperature .
Ambient operation temperature: 20°-35° C (68°-95° F)
Storage temperature: 0°-35° C (32°-95° F)
Thanks Mark82 and Chris .
I have seen that with temperature dropping warping is increasing .
Until 17 - 18° it was as usual while last weekend with 13 - 14° I notice warp increase in a 21x10x3 cm print and Z-Abs.
I would recommend a watch of this video series on youtube as guide to the world of 3D printing, it has many good pointers.
While it does show a different printer that the M200 all of the tips can still apply.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p3V90i8vo_k
A nice warm room temp around 30 degC and a cabinet bringing build temp up to over 45 degC has always worked best for me with abs.
I confirm that low room temperatures 11-13° C affects large prints in both x and y direction with warping (even if raft is well adherent to bed plate) while in small parts it is not noticeable.
Filament used Z-Abs.
I confirm that low room temperatures 11-13° C affects large prints in both x and y direction with warping (even if raft is well adherent to bed plate) while in small parts it is not noticeable.
Filament used Z-Abs.
Yes, under 15 C has always given me trouble in larger parts, even with sides and a top cover.
I've really gotten much better results with Clarke's (gadgetstogo) top hood assy, really like it on both my machines, but even a black plastic tub from the hardware store gave me an instant improvement during winter.
Another approach would be try ZHIPS filament for less warping/splitting.
I'm using it a lot these days and it's really good stuff.
I'm not a fan of ZULTRAT. I see no real advantage there for the increased price.