Calibration and nobs

I tried to find which nob changes which settings.

My current results are :

Nob turning clock wise will result in :

nob in the right back : Down Right - , Up Left +

nob in the left back : Down Right + , Up Left -

nob in front center : Down Left -, Down Right -, Up Right +

Could anyone confirm ?

I feel your pain. I hate trying to level the beds on 3d printers.

Yes, you are sort of right. One thing I have to keep reminding myself while attempting to level the bed is that it is more of a relational thing than an actual movement measurement.

I will try to explain. Pretend that right back is too low, and left front is too high. Loosening the screw at the back right will raise right back, but it does not lower left front the same amount You just change the relationship between the two points. The bed is not fixed at the exact center, so the center of the bed will rise a small amount. The actual movement will revolve around an imaginary line between the other two points that you are not changing at the time.

Don’t think of it as a kid’s see saw or teeter toter, which is basically a lever with a fulcrum fixed in the middle. Consider it like a board with a support under each end. If I raise one end of the board, it also raises the center a small amount. Most of the time, you will need to adjust at least two of the screws to get the change you want, but what I do is think about which two will need to be adjusted, then adjust one no more than 1/4 turn and check it again. Then adjust the other.

I downloaded the beta update so I could check the calibration of the points and level the bed. I too had issues with the raft lifting from the bed. One thing I discovered is that the calibration does not stay the same. If you make a print and remove it from the bed, the calibration will now not be the same as it was before you removed the bed to take the print off. So far, it has stayed close enough that I have not had to level the bed again, but it did move.

I should add that the screw in the front will in theory effect all 4 points, not just 3.

Down is front and up is rear. A positive value appears to mean the bed is low in that location.

How big is the difference? It’s the beds tolerances that effects this?

The other question that is related how can the magnets keep the bed stable for a long time is magnets demagnetize from heat?

I think we’re good on the magnets. Found this…

"If magnets are heated to the Curie point, they lose their ability to be magnetic. The dipoles become so disordered that they can’t return to their original state. Curie points are very hot, and you would not be able to get your magnets to reach them without special lab equipment. For iron, the Curie Point is 1417°F.

As your boiled magnet cools from the boiling temperature of 100°C back to room temperature, it will return to its normal magnetic strength. Cooling the magnet even further to 0°C in ice water or -78°C in dry ice will cause the magnet to become stronger. Cooling causes the molecules in the magnet to have less kinetic energy. This means that there is less vibration in the magnet’s molecules, allowing the magnetic field they create to be more consistently concentrated in a given direction."

Thanks to http://www.education.com/science-fair/article/magnets-temperature/

Like I said, it wasn’t a big difference. I think the biggest change has been .6 difference so far. I don’t know where it comes from. Just thought of something I haven’t tried. I need to run the calibration routine several times in a row without doing anything else to see if the readings stay constant.

OK, the bed may not be moving. It may just be the numbers from the calibration.

I just ran it 5 times without doing any adjustments or anything and this is what I got:

down_left_tp = 1.433750

down_right_tp = 0.456250

center_tp = 0.000000

up_left_tp = 0.536250

up_right_tp = -0.753750

down_left_tp = 0.932500

down_right_tp = 0.235000

center_tp = 0.000000

up_left_tp = 0.583750

up_right_tp = -0.660000

down_left_tp = -0.082500

down_right_tp = 2.462500

center_tp = 0.000000

up_left_tp = 0.571250

up_right_tp = -1.936250

down_left_tp = 0.717500

down_right_tp = 0.236250

center_tp = 0.000000

up_left_tp = 0.583750

up_right_tp = -0.646250

down_left_tp = 0.668750

down_right_tp = 0.450000

center_tp = 0.000000

up_left_tp = 0.523750

up_right_tp = -0.681250

On the third set of numbers, the extruder pressed down on the corner hard enough to make the table rise on the opposite corner. Not sure why it did it that time and not the others. For what we are doing, I don’t think anything past the first decimal point matters. Not even really sure the first decimal matters.

Looks like you need to raise the left side some… left and front. Make sure nozzle and bed doesn’t have excess ABS on it because it measures distance by making electrical contact with bed.

Yeah, you have to keep trying to clean the nozzle while it is moving since it will not run the calibration until the extruder heats up. Then you get little strings and such coming out the nozzle. I wonder why it has to heat up to run the calibration?

I’m not sure but you could also remove the filament and then do calibration if you want.

[quote name=The6uest]I’m not sure but you could also remove the filament and then do calibration if you want.
[/quote]

That’s what I did. I need to get a brass bush to clean the burnt plastic off the nozzle.

I always thought the cnc guys were very clever in using special 3D probe you attach to the spindle then calibrate your equipment. The thing is we don’t need 3D probe here, just a simple gold plated pin with a spring of known length and a point you insert it into the extruder head. I know it could be all automated so user don’t have to even insert it etc.

Extruder gets dirty and oxidizes over time so measuring with it is not optimal in the long run. And nobody will convince me that brushing the extruder with a wire brush is OK, if the nozzle is precision made that is.

@smile

You just create confusion in every topic about Zortrax design, you even never seen (excluding pictures) how working most of features which you try to redesign.

Best Regards

@Martin Olchanowski

That is very strange of you to say, if you are a developer you would welcome any suggestions you don’t need to pay for.

[quote name=smile]@Martin Olchanowski

That is very strange of you to say, if you are a developer you would welcome any suggestions you don’t need to pay for.
[/quote]

Really, you think it is strange? Imagine this: you spend more than one year of your life trying to make your dream come true; you and your partners work day and night, you put your hearts and souls into designing a great product and making it as good as you can possibly make it. You sacrifice your money, your career, your personal life, maybe your family life. After so much blood, sweat, and tears, ups and downs, 18-hour flights, living in China for months at a time, problems coming from everywhere needing to be solved, your product is finally here and you deliver at long last to your customers.

And the first thing that happens is some guy who is not even a customer, and who has never himself used or even seen the product, in every forum post here and on other forums, is telling everyone his opinions about what he thinks you did wrong and how he thinks it can be done better.

You don’t think you might be just a tiny little bit annoyed by that?

Thank you for what you think a is a “friendly forum attitude”.

I’ve never been told let by the staff that my questions / suggestions is making a “create confusion in every topic about Zortrax design”

This does not a happen or reprap forums, or any other forums for that matter. The so called “confusion” can go away with proper answers to my questions.

Forums are for asking questions, getting answers. If you are annoyed by that you are in a wrong place.

Since when a product can be discussed only on official forum?

Smile,

In Germany we say “the tone makes the music”. It’s not necessarily what you ask…it’s how. Some posts have a somewhat “demanding” tone to it and I think that irritates people. It’s often difficult in the internet world since you can’t see the people and their expression/body language. I’m a bit prone to that issue, too, when I’m online…sometimes I’m received as aggressive but it was never my intention. I’m sure you’re a nice guy and you just want to make suggestions to improve the product…I can see that… Just in the written form your posts “read” a bit disrespectful towards the people that made this printer a reality. And unfortunately you can’t argue with how other people perceive you…

OK, enough OT stuff, please.

Point has been made, lets get back to 3D printing, designing, and such.

Thank you.

Guys! Where did you get the 0.0.3 firmware? I can’t find the link

It wasn’t officially released yet. It’s still in testing I think. It should be ready soon though I hope!