filament jammed

Good ay all , been having a problem with the latest batch of Zortrax filament , a few days ago it jammed in the extruder and I had to take off the cover and pull it out with a pair of pliers , this morning it jammed again but had broken off .. there is a peace of filament jammed between the whole at the bottom of extruder an before the hotend , I took off the nozzle tried to move it with a thick wire ... no go , tried heating the wire up and moving it again ... still no go , can some one suggest a way of removing it with out taking out the entire extruder and hot end block...

Update : ok all fixed , had to go get a 1.5mm tungsten extra long drill bit and force it through , going to have to throw out this batch of filament , it not worth the trouble keeping it

Mate,

Before you jump the gun and throw out the roll, why not just check a couple of things first?

1. Heat the extruder.

2. Remove the nozzle when the extruder is hot.

3. Extrude ("load new filament") with no nozzle fitted, just to push everything through.

4. When extrusion finishes, neatly scrape off the extruded plastic without burning yourself or getting it everywhere.

5. Heat extruder and screw in a new or freshly cleaned nozzle, then extrude again.

6. I'd run the platform calibrate sequence as well, just for good measure.

I've had very little problems with the Z-ABS, other than with black where I got a few blockages.

I see you came over from the UP Plus same time as I did (and yes they are junk now, they were good at one stage), and while these Z's are better you still need to know how to maintain them.

With any printer you really need to know how to swing a spanner and be familiar with the machines specific maintenance and adjustments.

Good ay all , been having a problem with the latest batch of Zortrax filament , a few days ago it jammed in the extruder and I had to take off the cover and pull it out with a pair of pliers , this morning it jammed again but had broken off .. there is a peace of filament jammed between the whole at the bottom of extruder an before the hotend , I took off the nozzle tried to move it with a thick wire ... no go , tried heating the wire up and moving it again ... still no go , can some one suggest a way of removing it with out taking out the entire extruder and hot end block...

Update : ok all fixed , had to go get a 1.5mm tungsten extra long drill bit and force it through , going to have to throw out this batch of filament , it not worth the trouble keeping it

Hello,

Please provide what was the colour of the filament and what was it's type: Z-ABS, Z-Ultrat, Z-Hips or Z-Glass?

Thank you,

Chris

It was standard black z-abs , it got to point I just couldnt take it any longer and threw all the black out , Now I have the V2 hotend , and noticed that during long print (which most of my prints are) the extruder gets over heated , heating up the filament to the extent it becomes soft and the extruder cant get a proper gip on it and starts to rip little peaces from it , after a while it just stops extruding and wrecks the print

Mate,

Before you jump the gun and throw out the roll, why not just check a couple of things first?

1. Heat the extruder.

2. Remove the nozzle when the extruder is hot.

3. Extrude ("load new filament") with no nozzle fitted, just to push everything through.

4. When extrusion finishes, neatly scrape off the extruded plastic without burning yourself or getting it everywhere.

5. Heat extruder and screw in a new or freshly cleaned nozzle, then extrude again.

6. I'd run the platform calibrate sequence as well, just for good measure.

I've had very little problems with the Z-ABS, other than with black where I got a few blockages.

I see you came over from the UP Plus same time as I did (and yes they are junk now, they were good at one stage), and while these Z's are better you still need to know how to maintain them.

With any printer you really need to know how to swing a spanner and be familiar with the machines specific maintenance and adjustments.

<span><a  class="" href="http://forum.zortrax.com/index.php?/user/2083-hobbymods/" title=""><span><span>hobbymods</span></span></a> one of the first things I do before ANY print is to clean of the board , check the rails and bearing are clean of any abs dust , clean the nozzle and calibrate the platform , having had an UP Plus 2 before taught me never to leave anything for granted with 3D Printers . This is the first major problem I have had ever using z-abs , infact I use to use it on the Up printer </span>

Now I have the V2 hotend , and noticed that during long print (which most of my prints are) the extruder gets over heated , heating up the filament to the extent it becomes soft and the extruder cant get a proper gip on it and starts to rip little peaces from it , after a while it just stops extruding and wrecks the print

I experienced the same after installing V2 hotend.

Use this and you're thru it: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:932256

I did about 20 prints with it now, 2 still stopped extruding at the raft but now I know that it is because of after very long running prints the extruder gear needs some time to cool down before the next print and this was what I did not wait for. Right now I'm printing like the devil all day and night with very little pause between prints.

The problem with the extruder started while i still had the org V1 extruder , I got the V2 in the hope it would change but nope , my prints normaly stuff up when it's been printing for about 12 hours or more which off cause you could imagine is fustrating because I cant keep an eye on it 24/7 and funny enough I messaged my suppiler earler to say that I will have to try that modification hahaha thanks :)

Have you checked if the fan is working??

Usually that is the culprit and they tend to go out fairly quickly. Mine went out in the first 2 months.

<span><a  class="" href="http://forum.zortrax.com/index.php?/user/30-heavenlycreation/" title=""><span><span>HeavenlyCreation</span></span></a></span> that was one of the first things i checked an double checked , even put a cam above the system to record a print , showed that the fan&nbsp; was working all the time and spinning at about the right amount of resolution (well as far as i could see in play back) I only have laser rmp monitor an dont want to add extra heat to it hahaha (yer i know it would only be a minute amount )

The bottom fan you can't see. You need to switch the wires on top the extruder to see if it runs. Thats the easiest way.

But if you have checked it and know for sure then good luck.

The problem with the extruder started while i still had the org V1 extruder , I got the V2 in the hope it would change but nope , my prints normaly stuff up when it's been printing for about 12 hours or more which off cause you could imagine is fustrating because I cant keep an eye on it 24/7 and funny enough I messaged my suppiler earler to say that I will have to try that modification hahaha thanks :)

Then you should check other possible issues too.

I posted another thread about friction, had to change my filament tube and do not use the original spool holder except for half used (or less) spools.

Also the ribbon cable could be an issue, mine died short after I did the mod (at a time I thought I could be happy again), but the error showed different.

Extrusion stops have been area dependend with that failure (only when printing in the left foreground for example).

ok call me stupid ... didnt even bother checking the bottom one ... lol didnt even rememer it was there until you mentioned it hahaha , sheeeesh well i'm old so i have good excuse for acting senile at time lol , but doesnt the bottom fan only help to cool the print after it's already been through the extruder ?

The bottom fan you can't see. You need to switch the wires on top the extruder to see if it runs. Thats the easiest way.

But if you have checked it and know for sure then good luck.

This is not an issue of the lower fan. The lower fan has to be off for larger prints and that's not only a recomendation of Zortrax, me and others in the forum.

Mine is off most of the time, only use it for small objects or 'mesh' prints since I bought the printer (extrusion stops happened later only).

<span><a  class="" href="http://forum.zortrax.com/index.php?/user/2297-z-renegade/" title=""><span><span>Z-Renegade</span></span></a> yer it dawned on me that it could be something else , so I printed out a longer , thinner spool holder and also printed out a longer filament tube holder , being a old systems programer I look at multiple solutions simultaneously as a back up , if one doesnt work , hopefully something else will hahaha as for the ribbon cable that is the last thing i want to play with .. but will consider it as a last resort thanks</span>

hobbymods one of the first things I do before ANY print is to clean of the board , check the rails and bearing are clean of any abs dust , clean the nozzle and calibrate the platform , having had an UP Plus 2 before taught me never to leave anything for granted with 3D Printers . This is the first major problem I have had ever using z-abs , infact I use to use it on the Up printer

Ok.

Just trying to help mate.

It seems interesting to me that you also had trouble with the black Z-ABS....that's the only one I've ever had an issue with myself.

Feeling you about the UP's...I had nothing but trouble with the last 2 of them I bought, never again.

 being a old systems programer I look at multiple solutions simultaneously as a back up 

Yup, sysprogs are always have a plan B and some kinda special analytic thinking (if it is about good sysprogs :-)