First impressions

Well, after having DHL deliver to my home address instead of my work address (changed mid delivery) I finally got my M200. I had to wait almost 4 hours at the depot (and it was freezing in there) but it was worth it. Here are my first impressions: The packing was amazing, really well thought out. I really like the little tool kit too. I have all of those tools already but most users will not and you can get started without having to go buy stuff. The quality and construction is even better than everyone has described. I am a tool and die maker and am quite fussy, just ask my wife. I promised myself I would not buy another printer that used printed parts for functional components. The M200 is made solid with full bearing supports on all the shafts and rod ends. I spent at least 15 minutes just looking at it with a flashlight and am still looking at it as I type. The XY carriage is rock solid but still moves smoothly and no play what so ever in the Z stage. All the cables are neatly held in place and everything just looks like it was designed properly. This is not an expensive RepRap printer. It is a well priced excellent quality printer. I am really impressed with the spool mount that shipped with the printer and can’t wait to print my first “thing” tomorrow-I am really tired what can I say. At this point I am so impressed that I won’t be disappointed if it doesn’t even print :).

Thanks Zortrax team for an amazing piece of work,

Dhatw.

Nicely put and I echo your comments on both the packaging and the general build quality, it really is superb!

I’m sure you won’t be disappointed with the print quality either. Although there is still much to be done with the software, it prints better than most machines out there and is super easy to manipulate parts on the bed.

Support and raft removal is also dream, and that’s saying something coming from a long time UP user.

Have fun printing and please post your pics for all to see!

Yeah, I agree too. Very good build quality and made to last! Once they update the software with more features and auto-calibration it will even better! :slight_smile:

here are my first impressions :slight_smile: [Z Suite 0.0.3/Firmware 0.0.2]

Printer:

  1. overriding everything else - this is a great printer! Hardware quality is great - noise is not too bad - better than my UM1 - all in all I am very very pleased!

Small Issues:

  1. Sensor connector for the heated bed - is not really meant to be unplugged a lot. I don’t have the spec sheet for that exact connector - but I would guess it is designed for max 200-500 disconnects. I don’t have any good ideas on how to solve it - but I would stock a spare sensor cable and heated bed

  2. Heated bed is heated when printer is on - it would be nice if it turns off after [5,10,30,60,120,180 minutes] user selectable of course

  3. Seems like hotend struggles when heating from 230->260 degrees? I don’t know if that is due to a stabilisation calculation - or if it is underpowered or I have a loose connection somewhere - but it worries me a bit since it is supposed to be able to reach 360 degrees

  4. I would like to see temperatures in my display when printing. So maybe a few different screens with basic info - and a final screen with overall statistics incl. time taken when model is done - scrollable with rotary knob.

  5. Even with automatic calibration - I would like a “smart manual” calibration routine as well for thumbscrews. So printer checks all 5 points and says “please adjust front screw up until I beep…”

Z-Suite:

Impression - good starter point - but needs a lot :slight_smile:

  1. Slow loading/calculation … even on my 24GB i980 extreme desktop

  2. Model rotation - +/- are reversed if you as I look at the printer from the front. Press MINUS to rotate Z clockwise?? You ADD degrees when you rotate clockwise - :slight_smile: (at least everywhere but Germany and Finland)

  3. FILLING should be renamed “INFILL” I think :slight_smile:

  4. I’m not quite happy with visible flat surface fill - and model flat top/bottom thickness. They do not fill area nicely. That is far from the quality of UM1 - sides are ok. I would like to be able to specify top/bottom layer thickness. On UM1 I can select bottom thickness and top layer thickness.

  5. Random seams would be nice

anyway - do not take any of the above as I am not happy. I am ecstatic :slight_smile: It is a great printer - and you immediately trust it to work by itself without to much parental supervision. :slight_smile:

Good points kaz! I think most of that can be fixed in the software and they’re working on that a lot. As for the bed connector, I don’t even disconnect it every time because it’s easy enough to scrape the print off with the spatula most times.

[quote name=Rafal Tomasiak]Software is still in BETA version, we’ll add many new option in future.

Connectors was disconnected and connected thousands of time this is fully tested. I do not see the point, finding the problem where it is not exist :slight_smile:
[/quote]

Hi Rafal - check the datasheet on the connector. That lists number of connects/disconnects before the signal starts to degrade. I have never seen any connectors like the one you use being validated for more than 500 insertions after which the electrical specifications degrade very quickly. How much degradation you will see is of course dependent on the sensors and voltages used - and very much on the person doing the removal/insertion.

I am an electronics engineer - and am used to datasheets and funny connectors and manufacturing for longevity. I’m not saying it is a problem - but I do think that is where you might run into trouble in the future. And I am not trying to make trouble - just trying to be helpful - but if you have the data sheet on the connector - let me have a copy - and then if I’m wrong - I’ll amend my “constructive” criticism. :slight_smile:

[quote name=Rafal Tomasiak]It’s ok :slight_smile: I just said that we tested this connectors, and all was perfect. I do not exclude that there may deal with that issue, on the contrary - I assume that the problem does appear, then we will be looking for a solution :slight_smile:
[/quote]

Just remember that now you are shipping the product to (some) people - who have NO idea on how to safely remove connectors… :slight_smile: - I would recommend using the tweezers to apply even pressure to both sides of the connector tab so it comes out as straight as possible. That will increase its lifetime a lot and decrease the risk of people pulling the cables to detach it :slight_smile:

[quote name=kaz911][quote=Rafal Tomasiak]It’s ok :slight_smile: I just said that we tested this connectors, and all was perfect. I do not exclude that there may deal with that issue, on the contrary - I assume that the problem does appear, then we will be looking for a solution :slight_smile:
[/quote]

Just remember that now you are shipping the product to (some) people - who have NO idea on how to safely remove connectors… :slight_smile: - I would recommend using the tweezers to apply even pressure to both sides of the connector tab so it comes out as straight as possible. That will increase its lifetime a lot and decrease the risk of people pulling the cables to detach it :slight_smile:
[/quote]

I always pulling the cable since half year with sometimes 10 prints daily :stuck_out_tongue:

[quote name=The6uest]Good points kaz! I think most of that can be fixed in the software and they’re working on that a lot. As for the bed connector, I don’t even disconnect it every time because it’s easy enough to scrape the print off with the spatula most times.
[/quote]

Be carefull with this because small piece of plastic can ‘jump’ inside of ball screw nut this is silent way to damage ball screw.

But if you want to remove model without removing print bed then just put paper towel/tissue on the ball screw nut to not let anything to jump inside of nut at time when you removing model.

Best Regards

Thanks, good tip! I will be sure to cover it whenever I remove print without removing bed. I removed it now so that I can clean under the PCB. :slight_smile:

I have had my printer for 3 weeks now, I wanted to give it a good trial before posting about it. I have printed a lot of different things with it already.

When I received it, it was packaged extremely well, upon removing it from the box, I was very impressed and excited by it, the build quality is extremely good, it uses all anti backlash ball screws etc, what you would expect of a precision CNC machine.

It comes with everything that you need to get printing and I do mean everything, including a comprehensive tool kit, I got it fired up and printing without any drama. with no calibration, I placed the bed in it and hit print and off it went.

The immediate impression is that the quality exceeds most other FDM printers, with little effort or messing around.

The current firmware and software are basic and obviously stripped down BETA versions of what is to come, it does currently lack some important functionality which is due in the next firmware release.

However this does not hold it back from being a fantastic printer, it gives off the impression of perfectionism and I think the Zortrax guys are doing a really great job at producing a good quality printer.

I have printed off some larger prints, which most people know can be a challenge for ABS at the best of times. my bed is not 100% level, and on a couple of prints it started to pull away from the bed, in a lot of cases the raft compensates for this and the model is still usable.

The next firmware should minimize a lot of this issue, with better bed leveling ability.

If you are looking to buy a 3D printer, look no further, I looked at heaps of them and this one surpassed my expectations the minute I pulled it from the box and started printing with it…

Happy Zortrax customer :slight_smile: