Current firmware version : 6.6.6 (from Martin 09-01-2014)
Current Callibration : 0.64, 0.61, 0.0, 0.12, 0.43
Room temp : ± 20C
Time to let printer warm up : 15 minutes, then start print , heating nossle takes an other 5 minutes
The print platform feels hot consistently over the whole platform.
Problem : Front base lets loose and curls up.
Pics :
Today 17:34:23Rafal Tomasiak: Front the bed should be move up
Today 17:36:26Rafal Tomasiak: Use front knob, and turn knob to the left
Yeah, if you raise front it should fix that. Then check calibration again after to see if it’s better.
I’m not sure that this is a bed calibration issue. You can see from the curled-up raft that the first layer was well-pushed into the perfboard, there are little bumps all over the underside. This seems to be to be an adhesion problem; have you given the perfboard an acetone wipe to remove any possible residual oils? You might also try scuffing the perfboard surface with some fine or medium sandpaper to improve adhesion (be sure to remove all sanding dust before printing).
Just lifting the front bed did the trick 
As Trhuster pointed out, just see of the first layer is being put down properly , and if not adjust the bed until it is all ok.
Works better then feddeling with the calibration numbers imho 
Thanks for the support all
It is a good idea to keep the bed really clean too though as Julia said. I have noticed center sections appear to lift up slightly too which was probably from it not being clean enough.
And there’s always Elmer’s washable glue stick. I used to use it only on glass but now I use it with perfboard, too, if I think there’s a chance of warpage. Cheap insurance
The first thing I’m gonna do is making the holes conical with my dremel… I know… It’s a million holes, but I will just do it while watching TV… A couple rows at a time…
Looking at the shape of the little knobs it almost looks like the holes are already conical… Just the wrong way around with the big hole on top…!
Believe me… You will never have a lifting print anymore! As soon as the plastic enters through the small top hole (=tip of the cone) it mechanically anchors (or keys) in and can’t get out anymore.
Worked so great on my up!
Another suggestion for Zortrax…
Why not making a couple more extra lines on the perimeter of the raft? It looks like there is only one line, maybe two?
If you would go around the perimeter 3 or 4 times (with the lines next to each other) you will catch a lot more holes!
And it’s not really a lot of additional material or time.
[quote name=Andre]Another suggestion for Zortrax…
Why not making a couple more extra lines on the perimeter of the raft? It looks like there is only one line, maybe two?
If you would go around the perimeter 3 or 4 times (with the lines next to each other) you will catch a lot more holes!
And it’s not really a lot of additional material or time.
[/quote]
Yes it is something to test after auto calibration.
Best Regards
[quote name=Andre]Another suggestion for Zortrax…
Why not making a couple more extra lines on the perimeter of the raft? It looks like there is only one line, maybe two?
If you would go around the perimeter 3 or 4 times (with the lines next to each other) you will catch a lot more holes!
And it’s not really a lot of additional material or time.
[/quote]
Hey Andre… Once the bed is calibrated the problem goes away. Still no auto calibrate so manual is required. After that is done, I see this as a problem of the past. Mine is fine now. Only had one bad test.
Hi Kyle, It really depends on the things you print…some models can pull like crazy (I’ve experienced it) …so a little extra grip can’t hurt. And from what I’ve seen so far the system is a bit sensitive in regards to leveling and corresponding adhesion. A bit more robustness here would make life easier…especially when you take the platform in and out often. And the extra perimeter lines would help especially on long, narrow parts.
But in the end the best solution are the conical holes!!
Well with no experience on the subject I’ll take your word for it. I have had no problems after the first print, (after i raised the front of bed a little) 
What if you change plastic type and the plastic you used before starts burning or whatever? Ins’t having few print beds required if you want to permanently anchor the plastic that I agree will increase adhesion.
You would not need extra beds. Yes the holes would still have filament in them, but the next time you print the new filament melts and attaches to the filament still in the holes the same way as each new level of filament attaches to the level below it in a print.
I never cleaned the holes on my Afinia printer. Just make sure to remove any bits of raft that stick to the top of the bed when removing your model. I just ran the scraper over the bed to make sure there were no little bits left sticking up before starting my next print. I keep the printer covered in plastic when not in use, but I still wipe the bed with a cloth just before use to make sure there is no dust or anything on it that might keep the raft from adhering to the bed.
It’s not that you can’t remove the old plastic in the (I think unrealistic) case that you change to a plastic that has so much higher melting point that it would burn up the plastic which is still in the holes. You just have to take the perf board off of the heat bead and the little knobs fall right out on the other side.
But I think there is no way that the old stuff gets burned since for that the heated bed would need to get extremely hot which it can’t.
The rest is explained by dgtaylor…
Thank you for explanations. Perhaps this should be on zortrax improvement list then?
It would be good if we had had such a list on the forum then one could check if the improvement is in it and don’t ask for same things over an over a again.
I fully believe so! For me the conical holes were THE solution for all my curling issues.
…and that’s why I repeat it so excitedly (and annoyingly, I know) all the time
I really hope Zortrax will take that suggestion and implement it in future perf boards and then offer those as an upgrade for us beta testers.
With all that said… I still did not test a Zortrax personally (can’t wait for it to be shipped!!!). All my suggestions are based on my experience with an UP and what I see here in the forum and those curling rafts look so familiar to me (from the pre-conical times ) and I just wanna share my experience in this area
I agree… Such a list would be good to have to avoid repeating questions