How to repair perforated plate

Hi everyone.
I have two perforated plates and both are starting to be unusable because there are some points in the center where there is no more contact and therefore the printer gives me an error.
Honestly, I don’t feel like spending another 100 euros on the new part and would like to try and fix it.
Has anyone tried using liquid wire paint?


You can try performing the platform maintenance as in below guide if it helps your problem :slight_smile: :

Best Regards

yes I’ve tried on my old plate but the resistance is too high and the printer don’t close circuit and continues making holes.
This is the plate that came with the printer, lasted 600hrs.
The second plate has 10000hrs in it and has plenty of life in it.
I found most of the damage came from the spatula and how you use it, if you round corners and make them less sharped you will drastically reduce damage to the plate

I have the same problem, two holes in the center.
I think that the holes are because of some extruded material had avoid electrical contact.

It is a pity that there no software option to shift the testing points…

What do you think about these two solutions :
1- make a square 25x25 mm from a 0.1 mm copper plate and with a CNC remove 0.1mm from the center of Zortrax M200 plate, solder with tin the edge of the copper plate to the M200 plate.
2- Cut a copper plate 7mm smaller that the M200 area. Put some tin in the center and the corners.
Put the copper plate on the M200 plate, use a heat gun to melt tin, press at center, and the corners, eventualy solder the edge of the copper plate to the M200 corners.

Let me know…

I fixed my one using the liquidwire.
It’s absolutely amazing and work perfect.
I applied two coats of paint and dried them with a hot air gun.
Total time 10 minutes, cost €10.
This treatment will thus last 1000-1500 hours but considering that with 10 € of paint I will be able to paint it at least 20 times, it is worth it.

This ?


It woks very well.
I spent a lot of time to clean the holes, my fault because the cap of Dimafix bottle went away and a large amount of glue saturated the plate holes, very hard to remove.
After the CNC work.
The copper plate 0.2 mm thick, was glued with hybrid acryl glue and then the corners were solder with tin.

Yes, exactly the same.