Huge warping ! again [SOLVED]

Support&troubleshooting Zortrax M200
#1

I don't know how to bring this.....

Sometimes the prints are perfect....sometimes...well not

I'm coming to a point where I ask myself is this printer able to print large parts without warping ?

I have already done so many to get a decent print, like printing a so called heated chamber in the hope the print stays on the printbed.

Or lift it about 10mm above the printbed...

Is there someone who knows how to solve this problem. Send me a pm

Any help will be appreciated

Here are some pics of my current part (unfinished) dimensions of finished part are 55mmx198mmx100mm

#2

Hello, make a search in this forum for "sacrificial rim", there are a few trick that will solve your problems.

Good luck!

#3

My best solution to eliminate raft lifting was cleaning the perf board, freeing the holes from abs debris with the help of a 0.8mm drill, cleaning the aluminum heatbed plate and a perfect calibration after all. Before the print I apply a very thin layer of UHU stic and always print in an ambient temperature of 20-22 degrees with the door panels on. No raft lifting and layer breaks since then. I'm using mostly ZABS.

#4

When I get warping like that I'll clean the perf board with Acetone and then put down a light slurry mixture of Z-ABS & acetone (wiped on with paper towel). Works great.

#5

My best solution to eliminate raft lifting was cleaning the perf board, freeing the holes from abs debris with the help of a 0.8mm drill, cleaning the aluminum heatbed plate and a perfect calibration after all. Before the print I apply a very thin layer of UHU stic and always print in an ambient temperature of 20-22 degrees with the door panels on. No raft lifting and layer breaks since then. I'm using mostly ZABS.

The only thing I would say about this is you do not have to remove the filament plugs in the holes of the perforated board. Look at the underside of some rafts you have removed. The ABS will stick to cold ABS in the holes and not cause enough of an issue to warrant that much effort!

#6

The only thing I would say about this is you do not have to remove the filament plugs in the holes of the perforated board. Look at the underside of some rafts you have removed. The ABS will stick to cold ABS in the holes and not cause enough of an issue to warrant that much effort!

Yes I know that as this is mentioned from the Z Stuff at their tutorials too but for me it worked better to remove them.

#7

Your solution is : fine levelled bed and abs slurry.

#8

Its most likely faulty Heatbed, I bet that if you would locate that print on the back of the printer (or back-right corner), everything would be nice. 

#9

Okay Marcin,

I will try this.

So I have to buy a new printbed if the print stays on the printbed if I print it on the back of the printer ?

If so do I also have to order a new hotend with V2 nozzle.

#10

Manually Tram your build plate to the nozzle then use Elmer's children's glue stick (vanishing purple) on the build plate to hold down the raft.

#11

Manually Tram your build plate to the nozzle then use Elmer's children's glue stick (vanishing purple) on the build plate to hold down the raft.

Elmer's "Office Grade" glue stick works much better than "School Grade in my experience. Slurry is stronger but a pain.

#12

Elmer's "Office Grade" glue stick works much better than "School Grade in my experience. Slurry is stronger but a pain.

Is the "Office grade" water soluble? That is what makes it useful and I love how it holds Nylon.

#13

Yes, it's exactly like "school grade" but a bit stronger.

#14

Hello, make a search in this forum for "sacrificial rim", there are a few trick that will solve your problems.

Good luck!

Sounds a bit naughty....I'm scared to google that for the risk of getting in some serious trouble with the other half.

Back on track....level bed, cleaned with acetone then apply some ABS slurry with a paper towel while the bed is hot.

It will work a treat.

#15

Dont' know if I'm beating a dead horse here, but Julia Truchsess a while back ago suggestion of office grade glue works really well and as she said prior, it's way easier to clean up post print and apply prior to a new print.