large prints

Zortrax M200 General Discussion
#1
Hello!! :)  :)
For large prints that layer thickness is recommended? And what 'is the material most recommended?
#2

It depends on what kind of look you want, on large prints it does not matter all that much for the resolution, it is the infill that can break the part. On larger prints if I want to keep time down out of the 1 day range I will set it for 200 microns. Out of personal preference I do not set any print over 300 microns simply because I do not like the finished product.

What I mean is there should be no difference in reliability of printing when it comes to resolution unless you are using the 350 micron setting, I believe that is the setting with layer adhesion issues.

-Michael

#3

Michael - if you are talking about Zortrax printers, your resolutions are a bit off - Zortrax offers options for 90, 140, 190, 290, and 390µ.

Mike

#4

When printing large pieces which have "large" horizontal dimensions (more than 9cm), I have cracking problems with ABS, even using side and front covers. I always use the "light" infill type and 0.29mm layers.

Now I use zHips to print large parts and I don't have cracks anymore. Anyway the curling still exists with zHips. 

Prismatic pieces with square or rectangular section are the most problematic.

To minimize curling, for me the best option I tried is a hairspray. It works much better than the ABS slurry.

I also tried a special adhesion spray for FDM 3d printers (Dimafix). It is supposed to have a good adhesion when the print bed is hot, and it releases the raft when the temperature drops. But its optimum adhesion happens when the temperature is above 70ºC, and I think that the print bed of the M200 doesn't reach such hight temperature.

The result I obtained with "Nelly" hairspray, which cost less than 2€ in any perfumery was better than the specific 3D-printing spray which costs nearly 10€

#5

i almost never see curling of the raft and whatever you use for the platform/raft adhesion, wont help on the curling of the model itself...

#6
In a large printing the thickness of the layer as it can affect?
It is better to a thickness of 90μ or could cause problems?
#7

i almost never see curling of the raft and whatever you use for the platform/raft adhesion, wont help on the curling of the model itself...

The platform adhesion is essential to prevent the curling of the raft during print, what causes the piece to become a shambles. When the raft comes off the print bed and rises 1 or 2 mm, the nozzle penetrates the printed layers and burns the material and gets dirty (at least, that is what happens to me from time to time)

But, indeed, preventing the curling of the raft does not grant that the base of the piece itself will be flat.

Anyway, the geometry of the piece is the most important aspect.

#8

In a large printing the thickness of the layer as it can affect?

It is better to a thickness of 90μ or could cause problems?


Like Draude suggested, going with the larger layers is actually better. Printing in 90 gives the part much longer to cool between each layer, causing more curling.

I suggest for print conditions:

  1. Most important: side covers on printer

  2. Warm room temp with no drafts

  3. Abs slurry (hair spray for hips) on plate

For print options:

  1. 290 layers

  2. Light infill

  3. Fan disabled

  4. Ultra t (maybe hips, but I haven’t used it)

For part:

  1. If possible break up long runs with holes/gaps

  2. If you have sharp corners, add thin discs onto them to increase bed surface area at these points. You can cut the disks off after the print. Note: you can set number of bottom layers, so make sure that the disks thickness is less than number of layers*layer thickness so there won’t be exposed infill when you cut the disks off.

Hopefully this helps. :slight_smile:

#9

Michael - if you are talking about Zortrax printers, your resolutions are a bit off - Zortrax offers options for 90, 140, 190, 290, and 390µ.

Mike

I was talking about Zortrax, but I tend to call it by the 100-400 range not 90-390 because this helps put it more in line with other printers we (Octave) deal's with. When you go out to as many shows as I do a year it is better to just round up then constantly make a mistake by saying 90 microns on X printer when it cannot do 90 but 100 only. Habits also play a large part though.

Plus the 10 microns are almost nu-noticeable by eye, It is the precision of the x-y axis and the extrusion rates that really make the difference.

-Michael

#10

Hi there everybody

As it goes about the large prints and layer setting, it should be set to 0.14mm. From the materials, you should use HIPS or ULTRAT for that kind of prints - depending on your needs. You should also set the fan setting to the lowest speed. If there are no small details in the print, you can even consider turning the fan off.

Always before that kind of prints, prepare the printer properly by cleaning the platform with the abs solution, calibrating the platform and avoiding the cold air flow through the printer.

Let me know if any of those advices were useful.

As always, I remind you that you can contact our customer support team, if needed: support@zortrax.com or check our advices at: www.support.zortrax.com

Best,

Chris

#11

Thanks for the tips :)

#12

You welcome, any time :)