Hi everyone,
I'm trying to set my Zortrax M200 for the first time.
I cannot complete the autocalibration, even after following maintenance processes.
Does anyone know if the calibration may be set manually (for example with a spirit level that is usually used in masonry)?
Thanks, :wacko:
Hi,
Yes, you can use a spirit level at first but then, do an autocalibration again. I did it once I was not able to level the build plate correctly, and it helped to succeed in autocalibrating it.
If you don’t succeed in after that, your printer may have a problem.
Laurent
Hi everyone,
I'm trying to set my Zortrax M200 for the first time.
I cannot complete the autocalibration, even after following maintenance processes.
Does anyone know if the calibration may be set manually (for example with a spirit level that is usually used in masonry)?
Thanks, :wacko:
Hi there David.
Was the autocalibration successful? If not, please let me know if you're still having issues with your printer. You can write a direct message to me, right here in the forum.
You can also write to our customer support team, using the support form: http://support.zortrax.com/application-form/
Regards,
Chris
Spirit level will not work with 3D printers unless the surface the printer is sitting on is level. "Leveling" in printing is actually leveling the build plate to the nozzle (setting a Tram is a term I have heard used before), so you have to ignore gravity when you think about it. I always hand level the machine while off then use the Assisted Calibration on the printer to set my level.
The M200 does not have an Auto Calibration system, This would imply you do not touch the printer while it works, much like the Afinia H480, H800. The system the M200 has is more like an Assisted Auto leveling or just Assisted Calibration being that the user is still doing the majority of the work. That being said the system still works well for the majority of users and I would certainly not want to give it up.
-Night Shift
@Chris: There are problem with autocalibration (and extruding, and overheating) because flat black ribbon cable was fucked up. They was not designed correctly. What type of engineer, design connection with two different type of connectors? On PCBs there are typical IDT connectors (on mainboard with key in middle, and on extruder PCB with key on middle and latch), but on flat ribbon cable there are other type connectors and they not providing proper connection between mainboard and extruder PCB!!! The connector is not seated firmly, too much loose and this make problems (overheating when on shows only 40-60%, calibration problems, extruding problems)
That's how it is, but if you replace the cable (probably even creating your own), watch out for the correct wiring because the cables have changed and maybe some resellers have the older ones on stock.
Wrote about it here: http://forum.zortrax.com/index.php?/topic/1984-about-more-durable-ribbon-cables/?p=23701
The connector is not seated firmly, too much loose and this make problems (overheating when on shows only 40-60%, calibration problems, extruding problems)
I just give up with calibration on my v4 printer it’s impossible (on v1 there is no problem).
Overheating problem which you desribed is caused by floating analog voltage (very rare problem) which can cause other issues. I suggest to contact with support they will arrange shipping your printer to our service center to check and fix it for free if printer is still under warranty. Yes cable is not with perfect connector which slowly is replaced into better one but you addressed issues into wrong place - “cable&connector” I see that you requested 2 pcs of cable with PCB and connectors on the support and received it and problem still exist then just contact with us using support form:
http://support.zortrax.com/application-form/
Best Regards
Martin