Hi guys -
Just got my printer and I’ve printed out a test cube… It is fantastic. All sides of the cube have an error of less than 0.05mm - and I’m not too sure about that because my caliper batteries are low. 
I wanted to ask if there are datasheets available for your material. I want to compare strength and properties of the Z-ABS with standard ABS as well as other materials in the future.
Thanks lots!
Keep it up!
Could you put some pics up as we plan to use the printer for mechanical prototyping. 
Thanks in advance.
We have done ISO test of our material (yeah! somehow first in the world for this price range of 3D printers) with printer specimens, just it was done in polish laboratory so the whole document have to be translated into english.
It is hard to compare ‘standard ABS’ with our data sheet because we done test with printed specimens other sources just give for you data sheet of resin material with ISO tests done with moulded specimens I never seen any data sheet of material done with printed samples (excluding machines for xx thousands USD).
Best Regards
[quote name=Maecolis]Hi guys -
Just got my printer and I’ve printed out a test cube… It is fantastic. All sides of the cube have an error of less than 0.05mm - and I’m not too sure about that because my caliper batteries are low.
I wanted to ask if there are datasheets available for your material. I want to compare strength and properties of the Z-ABS with standard ABS as well as other materials in the future.
Thanks lots!
Keep it up!
[/quote]
Fantastic, I too plan to get this printer for a project this year. Do you have dial or test indicator like mitutoyo 513-404? Could you measure the printed cube with it? Or perhaps evaluate printer stability?
@Martin O
I’d love to get basic data - melting point of the resin, tensile strength and modulus of elasticity, elongation before failure, shear, etc. I don’t expect to get results on printed samples - typically those results range from 30-60% of solid resin and I can calculate that error. I would really like to know melting temperature and tensile strength of the basic resin though. That way I can be sure the parts I make won’t fail catastrophically.
A DTI wouldn’t help much unless I had a plate to measure on - which I don’t at home. Measurements on the X axis are +0.0015in (measured in 3 places, average), Y +0.001in (3x), Z -0.0025in (3x).
Cell camera image below, so it’s not the best, but you can see how the block is designed. There is an issue with the support and layering causing a hickey on the inside of the central bore through the Z axis, but otherwise, it seems pretty good. If this were a mechanical part I would ream it to size anyway. The down side so far is that I have noticed air gaps within the build using full fill. I would need to cut the thing apart to prove it though.
I can concur air gaps within the build using full fill.
I printed a part using solid fill this afternoon and it looks no different than the full fill option.
[quote name=Geisterfahrer]I can concur air gaps within the build using full fill.
I printed a part using solid fill this afternoon and it looks no different than the full fill option.
[/quote]
I hope this can be fixed, after all solid fill should have no gaps.
[quote name=Geisterfahrer]I can concur air gaps within the build using full fill.
I printed a part using solid fill this afternoon and it looks no different than the full fill option.
[/quote]
It is correct full infill always contain tiny gaps and it is hidden inside of model, from outside it is not visible.
Solid infill and other types are different in spacing it looks not very different because difference is like a 1mm for every infill type and in small spots anyway the glass type of infill is picked up automatically.
[quote name=smile][quote=Geisterfahrer]I can concur air gaps within the build using full fill.
I printed a part using solid fill this afternoon and it looks no different than the full fill option.
[/quote]
I hope this can be fixed, after all solid fill should have no gaps.
[/quote]
This is true from theoretical point of view but not from practical in 3D printing, and again we speaking about tiny gaps inside of models outside is always “glass” type of infill.
Best Regards
If printing part for strength, then does this mean it is better to not use solid infill and fill the inside of the part with epoxy?
I don’t know how you want to put epoxy inside due of whole surface is closed smile
We speaking about tiny gaps in inner infill of the model the outside surface is always “glass” type - I speak here about something like an air in basketball ball (instead of air here on the 3D print we have inner infill) not the outer surface of the ball which is solid (glass infill picked up automatically) anyway this is complicated story - just you have to know that it is not reprap way to infill and Zortrax use many kinds of it picked up due of geometry, the infill option in Z-Suite software let you to play only with the part responsible for strength not for outside outlook which is always closed without gaps of infill size.
Best Regards
I would design the part with open spaces to fill with epoxy resin. The inside would be printed empty.
Very nice 
Forgot to note that bigger parts need to use some sand mixed with epoxy glue, that is because the sand acts like filler material. Filling with big amount of epoxy is dangerous due to extreme heating and possibly fire if you fill like 10x10x10cm cube with it. (not to mention warped parts)
If you still do not want to use filler material, then you have to fill in small layers.
Dear smile. You are out of the subject here. We are talking about material datasheet.
Please create a new topic for your specific subject of filling. Thanks. 
Fun question…
I am assuming the glass transition temperature is around 105 degrees Celsius then… Anything less than 80 degrees C would alter the way I would need to use the material in some of my designs…
Would it be possible to make a glass reinforced Z-ABS?
Thanks!