New glass build plate for m200+

Zortrax M200 Plus General Discussion
1

Does anybody have any experience of printing on the new glass bed for the m200 plus? I used to print on a UM2 with a glass bed with great success but it was also quite difficult and time consuming to set up perfectly. Can the M200+ print ABS and Z-flex on glass? Will it print any z material on glass? How do you calibrate? Can you use the same print settings as the perf plate?

2

Hi. Yes, you can print any material on the glass plate, but remember to apply some plate adhesive. Also, it is recommended to perform the manual calibration on M200 Plus. You will find all useful tips for printing on the glass platform on our support center.

3

Hi, I bought the glass plate and followed the installation instructions carefully. I now get an error #200. I’m a bit disappointed, this should be easy. The small pogo pin switch that has to be removed is obviously needed but can’t be fitted with the glass plate. Either the instructions are incomplete or the glass plate isn’t going to work. Please help.

4

Hi, it seems that my colleague from the Support Center already provided you with a solution. In general - we recommend updating the firmware to 2.1.0 as it provides more information regarding the given error and indicates what components should be inspected. Also, it is crucial to make sure the heatbed cable is firmly plugged both into the platform and the Z-Axis cover. The instructions on the Support Center are complete, the Pogo pin module should not be installed with the glass plate. Also, please note that you can carry out only manual calibration with the glass plate (refers to M200 Plus and M300 Plus).

5

Hey there! I’ve been experimenting with the new glass bed on my M200+ and here’s what I’ve found so far:

  1. Printing ABS: Yes, the glass bed can work for ABS, but you might need some adhesive like hairspray or glue stick for better adhesion.
  2. Z-flex: Printing flexible filaments like Z-flex on glass can be a bit challenging due to the lack of flexibility in the bed. You might want to try a different surface like BuildTak or PEI for such materials.
  3. Calibration: Calibrating on glass is a bit different from a perf plate. You’ll need to adjust your Z-offset to get the right first layer. Use a piece of paper or a feeler gauge to fine-tune the distance between the nozzle and the bed.
  4. Print Settings: While some settings might be similar to a perf plate, you’ll need to make adjustments, especially for the first layer, to ensure proper adhesion. Experimentation and fine-tuning will be key.

Remember, it might take a bit of trial and error to get everything dialed in perfectly, but it’s worth it once you get the hang of it! Feel free to ask if you have more questions

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