I'm not sure if it is normal, but I must clean the nozzle nearly after every print. It always accumulates ABS which burns in its surface, and then causes the printed part to have stains. I am not able to get "pure white" pieces (they always have burns) even if the nozzle has been cleaned just before.
When I print multiple pieces, usually there are multiple thin threads among the different pieces, and the seams are not as clean as they should be.
I nearly always set the fan to "auto", although sometimes I turn it off for pieces in which the better layer binding is required.
What kind of filling are you using, is it mesh or light?
Also, what kind of temperature are you having in your printing room? Isn't it too high? (over 30 cels.)
As it goes about the second part of your message, I strongly suggest contacting our customer support team regarding this isse as there can be a problem with main extruder cable.
The room temperature es about 23ºC (I use side and front covers, so the piece in the printing volume will be higher).
I always or almost always do what Thruster advises.
Anyhow I will contact the support team. Now I thing that there is any problem with the extruder temperature control (I can not say if this is just the cable, the sensor or the CPU).
Sometimes, when I give the order "unload filament", the extruder starts heating but the status bar does not advance and the ABS burns into the nozzle hot end. Then I restart the M200, give the order again, and the filament comes out at the moment (it doesn't have to wait for the extruder heating because it is already hotter than necessary).
Maybe the printer looses control over the extruder temperature at some instants of the print job and that causes the burns.
Sometimes, when I give the order "unload filament", the extruder starts heating but the status bar does not advance and the ABS burns into the nozzle. Then I restart the M200, give the order again, and the filament comes out at the moment (it must not wait for the extruder heating because it is already hotter than necessary).
I have seen that too some times, only after the printer has sat idle for hours. If you get in the habit of switching it off and then back on before using it again after a long idle period, then my bet is that it wont happen again. Probably not related to your other issues
I've had my M200 for less than a week and have made some newbie mistakes is guess. My nozzle has clogged 4 times and during the last clog I removed it to clean. The Hotend was cold, (I'm supposing this caused this) and when I removed the nozzle it broke, ruining my hot end. I've ordered two additional hot ends and additional nozzles as well. I am trying to figure out proper proceedures for maintenance and operation but it would seem that I'm learning with my checkbook. I would appreciate any maintenance and proper operation tips/links. Also, what is "Thruster"?
Hmm, I had a temp runaway too, but I figured it was just a fluke. I had attempted to unload filament right after another print had completed. Five minutes later the lcd still said heating but there was housing and popping sounds coming from the nozzle. I toggled the power and tried again, and the filament immediately came out and it was quite melted much further up than usual.
I have bought Zortrax M200 month ago, I have big experience with another 3D printers and seems this is main Zortrax problem for me. Hotend becoms black very fast, and if printing takes more than 2 hours, it definately will smudge my white Z-ABS. Saaaddd. Perhaps there are any chemicals to lubricate outside of nozzle to protect its surface from dingy?
I have bought Zortrax M200 month ago, I have big experience with another 3D printers and seems this is main Zortrax problem for me. Hotend becoms black very fast, and if printing takes more than 2 hours, it definately will smudge my white Z-ABS. Saaaddd. Perhaps there are any chemicals to lubricate outside of nozzle to protect its surface from dingy?
The white one is Z-ABS. None of the prints had any blobs or burns or ended with a dirty nozzle.
Maybe some more M200 experience is needed and you will find that there is no problem compared to other printers.
I just clean the nozzle before any print, nothing more to do.
If you have concrete questions and reproducable failures it's best to show some pics and probably upload the model.
Asking Z-Support for help directly (see link at top of page) is another option.
Nice lamps! Hmm, good news for me that it's not an usual thing. I cleaned nozzle head with napkin when hotend is hot 10% before it starts to print. Perhaps need more hardcore cleaning and how?!
I'm using the white z-abs right now (completely given up on the black z-abs for good) , and have the same things happen , nozzle getting dirty an black with burnt filament , black burn marks as it's printing , strings like fur on the print , started months back , upgraded to v2 hotend and still the same results , from what everyone has told me so far it may be you need to replace the cable
I'm using the white z-abs right now (completely given up on the black z-abs for good) , and have the same things happen , nozzle getting dirty an black with burnt filament , black burn marks as it's printing , strings like fur on the print , started months back , upgraded to v2 hotend and still the same results , from what everyone has told me so far it may be you need to replace the cable
Before you didn't have such problems? Btw I use this printer only 2 weeks, so why should I replace cable and with which one? Perhaps they have new filament components they didn't have before?
I was wondering for a while if they had changed the formula too but it's just one of those things . movable parts (exp cables) ware out . some quicker than others
I wouldn't relate such issues too a broken (extruder) cable.
Burn marks and dirty nozzles are often caused because of the object lifts off a bit (warping) and the nozzle touches the print or is too near to the object and the filament starts climbing up the nozzle.
A wrong leveled bed or inadequate toolpath (software issue) or the models shape can be a reason too.
And finally the filament. But hey we're talking about Z-ABS :ph34r: (if I only had that sarcasm script, but i cannot remember...)
It's all glazing a glass ball, just show some pics
Added:
Had such problems with layers above .19 (don't use them anymore), Random Seam can cause blobs also. Just show the settings you used.
Here is today printed object. Also new problem appeared - was hard to remove raft and support for this white ABS (before it removed without problems). And defects inside the object as you can see. Settings: Z-ABS, 10% infill, support Lite, speed: normal; resolution 0,09, outer contours 0,2; seam normal; top and bottom 5; fan speed: auto; shells: 3.
Here is today printed object. Also new problem appeared - was hard to remove raft and support for this white ABS (before it removed without problems). And defects inside the object as you can see. Settings: Z-ABS, 10% infill, support Lite, speed: normal; resolution 0,09, outer contours 0,2; seam normal; top and bottom 5; fan speed: auto; shells: 3.
I personally have not too much experience printing at .09 maybe some others pop in here.
I think I would try turning the object on it's head (180 degrees on X) and retry with same settings.
Idea behind it is, it would make the bottom part (would be top after flipping) printed from outside to inside what is the way the M200 handles better IMHO.
You could also try printing it with Z-Suite version 0.9.6
Update: The object is very small, maybe more fan is needed also.
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