Can anything be done to fix the perforated plate to the heat bed better?
It is a major pain to have to take it off every couple of prints to remove little bits of debris.
I also think that my prints are still warping because the perforated plate is not fixed down......my prints seem to be sticking to the raft, and the raft to the perforated plate, but when I remove them from the plate, they are still warped in the corners. I believe this is because the actual perforated plate is lifting.
I know my plate is straight. I have cleaned it once and the rest of the time I use glue stick and then just wipe of excess with water and then put more on and with out the glue my raft warps but with it, it is perfect.
I tried the slurry and for me it didnt work without glue.
But it is what it is. Been wanting to try hairspray but not sure if it would be any better for the print or even a messy clean up
I know my plate is straight. I have cleaned it once and the rest of the time I use glue stick and then just wipe of excess with water and then put more on and with out the glue my raft warps but with it, it is perfect.
I tried the slurry and for me it didnt work without glue.
But it is what it is. Been wanting to try hairspray but not sure if it would be any better for the print or even a messy clean up
My print sticks to the perforated plate fine, and I know my aluminium heat plate is flat, but when I remove the print from the perforated plate, the print is still warped on the corners, this leads me to think that the perforated plate is lifting from the aluminium heat plate. If the perforated plate was fixed to the aluminium (not just round the outside), would this stop the warping??
Often curlings or warping depend on the way the part has been planned. When printing full solid big parts thouse should be hollowed to help warping issues. The ABS slurry thing alone is a rock solid solution to help the raft to stick to the perf board, and if you don't see any detachment of the print from the raft then just let it cold at least 2 hours at the end of the print (because large prints retain a lot of heat) before removing from the perforated board. You'll notice then it's quite easier to separate the raft from the part and overall strightness will be better.
what does the calibration say? I know mine is like .0 on the edges and .2 in the center but all within normal range and have good prints.
I'm no expert but I can't imagine heat would push is up but it is possible when dealing with metal being heated as it expands but not enough to make a really visible warp.
I know in the video for cleaning the perforated bed to slightly bend the sheet to make flat.
Id take a pic of the bed straight on and of the pieces so we can better understand. (plus we all love to look at pictures hehe)
It wouldn't hurt putting a level on the bed to check to see if the center is of the sheet is bent up. I do this when I don't feel like calibrating.lol
Has anyone tried gluing a perforated plate onto a second aluminium plate (say 3mm thick), to stop the perforated plate lifting in places from the heated printbed?
My prints are still lifting the perforated plate from the heated printbed.
My thinking is if I glue the perforated plate to a stiffener plate, it wont lift (so much).
I am not sure about heat transfer though....any thoughts?
Maybe a thicker perforated plate from Zortrax could solve the problem...
I am having this issue too, in particular the objects with a flat bottom surface are not perfectly flat at the end of the print, even if the object is perfectly stuck to the raft and to the perforated plate (this happens for sure with ABS filaments, I don't remember if I had this issue even with Z-ULTRA filaments...).
The outer parts of the bottom surface of the printed object always result to be lightly lifted with respect to the central part, even if I always check that the perforated plate is straight and not curved in any way...
But I think the perforated plate thickness has been increased since the first machines, also more holes. I have the thicker one and it is still an issue.
The plastic shrinks as it cools, leading to internal stresses. When you release it from the plate, these internal stresses cause it to warp. That is at least part of the problem, if not the whole one. Holding it absolutely flat may not make much difference, unless the thing holding it that way is a permanent part of the print.
This is not that different from machining metal with CNC: you get done and the part is warped or curled, even though it was held absolutely flat and machined absolutely flat. Removing metal causes stress relief in what remains, and results in distortion. This is helped (but often not entirely eliminated) by annealing or stress relieving the billet prior to machining. Same things will happen in casting metal.
Has anyone experimented with stress relieving ABS or other FDM materials prior to release from the build platform? What I am thinking of is to post heat treat the part by bringing it near the glassing temperature, then cooling slowly in an attempt to relieve the thermal induced stress. I might try that in my heat treat oven. I wonder what temperature is safe for the whole build platform (connector bodies, etc.)?
The plastic shrinks as it cools, leading to internal stresses. When you release it from the plate, these internal stresses cause it to warp. That is at least part of the problem, if not the whole one. Holding it absolutely flat may not make much difference, unless the thing holding it that way is a permanent part of the print.
This is not that different from machining metal with CNC: you get done and the part is warped or curled, even though it was held absolutely flat and machined absolutely flat. Removing metal causes stress relief in what remains, and results in distortion. This is helped (but often not entirely eliminated) by annealing or stress relieving the billet prior to machining. Same things will happen in casting metal.
Has anyone experimented with stress relieving ABS or other FDM materials prior to release from the build platform? What I am thinking of is to post heat treat the part by bringing it near the glassing temperature, then cooling slowly in an attempt to relieve the thermal induced stress. I might try that in my heat treat oven. I wonder what temperature is safe for the whole build platform (connector bodies, etc.)?
I've got the same problem. I'm using side covers, abs-slurry and Z-Ultrat and still have STRONG warping.
I've tried to put the part in to the oven for 5-10 min and 100C. Result: As I put it out of the oven and put it on the table it warped down. I think the bottom cooled down too fast.
my next idea was...: "stress relieving ABS or other FDM materials prior to release from the build platform". So I would try to put the part with the platform into the oven.
That's what I was going to try - put the whole thing in the oven. I have a programmable heat treat oven, you can program the ramp rates and times at each temp etc. I'm thinking it could be ramped up fairly fast, maybe 30 minutes at temp to heat soak, then cool over an hour or two. Has anyone seen any information about it? Be good to know where to start.
The plastic shrinks as it cools, leading to internal stresses. When you release it from the plate, these internal stresses cause it to warp. That is at least part of the problem, if not the whole one. Holding it absolutely flat may not make much difference, unless the thing holding it that way is a permanent part of the print.
This is not that different from machining metal with CNC: you get done and the part is warped or curled, even though it was held absolutely flat and machined absolutely flat. Removing metal causes stress relief in what remains, and results in distortion. This is helped (but often not entirely eliminated) by annealing or stress relieving the billet prior to machining. Same things will happen in casting metal.
Has anyone experimented with stress relieving ABS or other FDM materials prior to release from the build platform? What I am thinking of is to post heat treat the part by bringing it near the glassing temperature, then cooling slowly in an attempt to relieve the thermal induced stress. I might try that in my heat treat oven. I wonder what temperature is safe for the whole build platform (connector bodies, etc.)?
Looking at my prints, the the perforated plate must be flexing off the build plate as the print progresses, as the top of the print is flat, this means that the corner height where curled will be shorter than the non curled heights. I am not sure this can be fixed? (Could be completely wrong). That’s why I think trying to make the perforated plate stiffer will stop the deformation from the outset.
This might cause problems in other areas, like raft lifting or delamination/ cracking…not sure.
I am in the middle of building a heated enclosure to see if that helps, but not sure what temp to try and keep everything at.
I too have been planning on trying heat treating to relieve stress. For polymers (or anything really) the ideal situation is infinitely slow cooling, but obviously that's not possible. The data sheet says that the Vicat temp is 234F so that'd work for big parts, but you'd probably want to be closer to ~210-220 if you have delicate parts. My plan was to heat the oven to 220 with the parts in it, leave it for half an hour, then shut it off and go to bed letting it cool overnight. This should relieve much of the stress and theoretically could even de-warp warped parts. Not to mention it'll probably increase lamination strength.
Of course, they did get soldered at least once :) .
A better solution would be a removable plate, maybe aluminum, installed on top of the build platform. You would want two or three, and cycle them through the build/stress relieve process.