I shore would like to see a stronger perforated platform that is thinker so it dos not lift so easy I am having to take apart after 2 or 3 prints and clean it out to keep the platform flat so I can do big prints , (and yes I am using the putty knife to take it off)
if it was thicker and stronger we would have a lot less problems can this be dun?
I would definitely buy that one
thats jest my thinking
thanks
Clark
I have found something on the newer version V3 platforms is slightly different. I have had a hard time leveling lately to be able to get BIG prints the full 20x20 in 3 cases the right left corner was lower than th rest...
One thing I miss printing on is glass :(
Still using my original perfboard after nearly a year, all scratched up but working fine. I've only taken it off to clean it once or twice in that time.
Glass would be pretty pointless unless you could disable the raft; maybe useful occasionally but not high on my wishlist at all.
Yes, I also would vote for a sturdier board…
Glass would be pretty pointless unless you could disable the raft; maybe useful occasionally but not high on my wishlist at all.
I beg to differ Julia
Glass is perfectly flat and doesn't lift in various areas like the perf board does and you do not have to bend it to flatten it out like the perf board with continious use.
You can also replace it a lot quicker so I can finish a print remove the glass with binder clips and remove the bed and add a new bed within 30 seconds.
After your print is done if you use purple dissapearing glue like I do (which you do) you can let the print soak in water and it will release because it's water soluable and usually there is no need for that as the thermal contraction provides enough force to pop them off.
Theoretically it should be possible to calibrate the platform with the original perforated board, then put a glass on top and add the thicknes of the glass to the calibration values.
Theoretically it should be possible to calibrate the platform with the original perforated board, then put a glass on top and add the thicknes of the glass to the calibration values.
Have you ever actually used a Zortrax?
I would just drill a hole through the glass (slightly off center) and feed some aluminum foil through it. Then fold it so that it contacts the center square on the bottom and lays flat on the top for the nozzle to hit it. On the top I would just glue it down flat. On the bottom I would keep it slightly crumpled to make reliable contact with the square on the perfboard.
Alternatively you could hook up a long wire to the existing contact wire at the plug and attach the other end to a piece of aluminum foil… Then you can just lay the foil down onto the glass during calibration and then remove it quickly before the print starts…this way you don’t even need a hole in the glass… and you could even leave the perfboard off completely…just keep it hooked up (otherwise the firmware will throw an error) and lay it down underneath the platform (onto the floor of the printer)
Actually…when you do that you can use a simple crocodile clamp for the wire…just clamp it to one of the squares on the perfboard.
Summary…
Take perfboard off, put underneath platform, clamp a wire to one of the squares, attach metal foil to other end of wire, put glass plate on platform, lay foil with wire onto glass underneath the nozzle for calibration, remove foil right after calibration, print on glass (or whatever else), done.
Looking forward to look that solution implemented succesfully andre! It sounds very interesting.
Actually this was just an idea for the people wanting a glass plate. I personally am fine with the perfboard…I have no plans to test this at the moment.
Didn't I see a thread where someone had some special ordered glass to match the patterns on the zortrax perf plate and carry the current through, and ended up it didnt work out?