I have an M200 and the platform automatic calibration is consistently failing for me. I have had the printer for a little over a month and it had previously been able to pass automatic calibration without having to do too muching messing around with the springs/screws. I have followed the instructions exactly, starting with completely tightening the 3 spring thumb screws as instructed. I then start the calibration and it checks the Back Left and Back Right corners. It is constantly switching between telling me Back Right is too Low and to raise by tightening clockwise and Back Left is too Low and to raise by tightening clockwise. I usually turn the thumb screw about half a turn each time it tells me, and I can see the spring and the platform raising. I press the button and it checks both corners again and still just constantly telling me platform is too low. I have spent multiple attempts of 30+minutes slowly adjusting the thumb screws, with no luck of being able to even get to the front portion of calibration. Eventually either the calibration fails completely and the screen reads Back Calibration Failed with no other information or instructions or I have raised the platform so much and loosened the thumb screws so much it can no longer be raised and the thumb screws fall off. Both have happened to me multiple times. I have tried cleaning the platform, using a brand new perforated plate, cleaning the nozzle, cleaning the entire extruder assembly, and have checked all cabling and ports. The small 3 pin connector appears to be fine, and the problem is persisting across an old and a new plate. I have checked the platform using a bubble level and a level app on my phone, and when they were both reading level the auto calibration was still asking for the back left or back right to be raised. Any advice?
I have the same problem, but with the front. I think it's due to distortion of the lower plate and the perf. plate. There are three adjustment screws and if you have 3 points you will always be able to make a plane combining these tree points. If the plate now isn't flat (not planar anymore), meaning that each corner is on a different height when you put the plate on a completely flat surface, you then may adjust the two back screws to calibrate (as two points make a line), but the front will give you problems, as there are just one screw and two measuring points (these two front points are not on the same height).
In your case, you have problems with the back adjustment. I don't turn the screws till they are "solid". As a start out position, just turn them equally so there is about 1mm of screw sticking out from the nut. Then the platform will retract, or spring, a little when the head hits the plate thus lessening the impact. Use a feeler gauge or creditcard or similar to get all four corners equally distanced from the plate, then try auto calibrate.
What I do is to adjust the two back screws till they are ok, and play around with the front one in small increments till you get "counter clockwise" and "clockwise" messages alternatingly. Then you know you are pretty close. I just ignore and print and the results are good.
In your case, just use a feeler gauge in the four corners and center to get as close as possible to equally large gaps between plate and nozzle.
Good luck!
Did you guys went through our manuals from the support center?
http://support.zortrax.com/eliminating-axis-problems/
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Did you guys went through our manuals from the support center?
http://support.zortrax.com/eliminating-axis-problems/
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Yes I did all these things and it made no difference. I did what motordude suggested and instead of tightening the thumb screws all the way like the instructions said at the very beginning I set the springs to be in about the halfway position for all 3 springs and used my own level to check it. Then I ran the auto calibration again and it worked and passed it.
Yes I did all these things and it made no difference. I did what motordude suggested and instead of tightening the thumb screws all the way like the instructions said at the very beginning I set the springs to be in about the halfway position for all 3 springs and used my own level to check it. Then I ran the auto calibration again and it worked and passed it.
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I have a question bout calibration.
My new V2 Board has been off in the center since I installed it. Started at 0.2 and now 0.4
It passes the test but as the corners are 0 and the center is 0.4
I would love to have it all at 0. I am guessing if I take it off and try to manipulate it a bit then it will be off on a corner or two.
Are other peeps V2 boards the same way? I even thought maybe try to get something to press only in center of board but not sure, being it is thick and tough
Cheers
I have a question bout calibration.
My new V2 Board has been off in the center since I installed it. Started at 0.2 and now 0.4
It passes the test but as the corners are 0 and the center is 0.4
I would love to have it all at 0. I am guessing if I take it off and try to manipulate it a bit then it will be off on a corner or two.
Are other peeps V2 boards the same way? I even thought maybe try to get something to press only in center of board but not sure, being it is thick and tough
Cheers
Mine is leveled 0.1 at two outer points (dunno wich), .0 the others and I consider this already an optimum.
Having all at 0 is probably like getting a jackpot without value.
Take your .4 in the center to the 0.0 at the outside and relate it to the distance between that two points (about 130 mm).
That means on every mm step on this line the Z difference of the perf board is 4/130 mm = 0,03 mm.
Next you can calculate this for a given layer size bringing this further down by a factor of 2.5 to 10.
So I would consider this a pretty good leveling for a guy from florida, but (you might know) I am german and that's why I would try to get the lift of the center down a bit and have a better sleep at night. :ph34r:
In the support area there is a document about treating the perf board. First clean it and the plate below it from filament and the just bend it slightly from two sides so that the center gets down a bit (or better the outer areas get lifted a bit). This should not be too much (it's about 10ths of a mm) so that the outer screws later put the outer areas on the plate without lifting some areas between it and the center.
Better try not to bend too much, you can check if you get better leveling after the first try and give it another try if not good.
Maybe your'e already done by just cleaning the plate and the bottom of the perfboard.
Edit: Made a mistake. It's 0.4/130 resulting in a 0.003 mm difference for every mm.