print not sticking to raft despite calibration done


#1

Hi to you all

I noticed lately that my hot bed can crash slightly against the nozzle when conducting calibration; it then retracts back to normal position and continues its calibration.

after calibration is done I tried to print a certain file but the print doesn't stick to the raft and I even noticed that laid filament string are not laid close enough to the raft as below photos will show.

I contacted Zortrax support but it seems they have no idea what could cause this issue or give me a troubleshooting path.

Let me note that I cleaned the hotbed already.

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2nd try failure-1.jpg


#2
Hi!
 
1) I would examine if the platform regulating distances and the magnets are in place on the heatbed mount. The same applies to the magnets on the platform. See the pictures attached. It's possible that the front magnet (either on the plate or the regulation screw) does not hold the plate sufficiently and it leads to such an issue.
 
2) If it does not sit well on the heatbed mount, the platform bounces during the printing process
 
3) In the pictures you posted I see delamination of layers - I think the heater might be malfunctioning, and because of that the layers do not bond with each other as strong as they should. Do you have a multimeter? I would measure the resistance on the heater. See the picture attached. It should amount 14-16 Ohms.
 
4) I assume you don't have A/C turned on or the windows open while the printing process is in progress?
 
I'm looking forward to your reply.

#3

Hi Marcin, thanks for answering me

The hotbed is seated well in its place; it's firm enough as usual; I use my printer in the warmest room at my home and temp there is around 24 degrees.

as well for the heater I will measure its resistance and come back to you;however if there was a problem with the heater shouldn't it affect the raft layers as well?

Regards


#4

Ok

 

I got a multi meter and I measured the resistance in the described connector terminals; if I did it correctly the resistance was .5 ohms. I set the multi meter to 200 ohm scale.

 

I attached image for your information; please tell me what you think.

I would like to add that I measured voltage between silver squares and hot end and found it to be 3.28 volts. voltage between plate pin and silver block was also 3.28 volts.

 

Regards

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20181020_164752.jpg


#5

Ok

 

I got a multi meter and I measured the resistance in the described connector terminals; if I did it correctly the resistance was .5 ohms. I set the multi meter to 200 ohm scale.

 

I attached image for your information; please tell me what you think.

I would like to add that I measured voltage between silver squares and hot end and found it to be 3.28 volts. voltage between plate pin and silver block was also 3.28 volts.

 

Regards

attachicon.gif 20181020_164752.jpg

The part you measured is not a heater, but a heatbed cable.

Please see see the manual which will help you to find where the heater is.

https://support.zortrax.com/thermocoupler-and-heater-replacement/

I'm looking forward to your reply.


#6

My bad, I measured the correct terminals this time and I measured 14.7 Ohms.

Let me state that I tried to print same file with brand new Z-ABS but the result was the same as attached photo shows.

Please check below images

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failed Z-ABS print.jpeg

5069

resistance value.jpeg


#7

Does the problem appear even if you place the model at a different spot of the platform?


#8

I tried another spot as below image shows but there was still some lift up in the same direction as before.

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ABS failed print-1.jpeg

5083

ABS failed print-2.jpeg

I then tried printing in top left of bed but it again failed as below photos show

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2nd failed print-1.jpeg

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2nd failed print-2.jpeg

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2nd failed print-3.jpeg

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2nd failed print-4.jpeg

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2nd failed print-5.jpeg

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2nd failed print-6.jpeg


#9

Any update regarding my issue?


#10

Hi Greycloud,

I'm sorry for late response.

The extrusion temperature seems to be too low anyway, therefore I suspect the extruder PCB or the extruder cable to be faulty.

Is the machine new? How many hours has it worked so far? Please contact me via PM.

Kind regards,


#11

I just found this thread I am having a similar issue. The print is not sticking to the raft. This was not a problem until recently. Typically, it was a bit difficult to remove the part from the raft. I recently upgraded the software to the latest version of Z Suite and updated the firmware. I don’t know if that has anything to do with the change.
I saw that you were discussing the possibility of it being related to the temperature of the heater. How do you measure the heatbed temperature and what temperature do you expect it to be for ABS?

I have a M200 printer with about 200 hours on it, I have all of the side panels on and the Zortrax top cover. Another question, does using the fan on the cover create an issue when printing?


#12

Hi,

What Z-SUITE version were you using before updating it to the newest one? We have not added fixes/adjustments for M200/M300 since several software updates. The same for the firmware - the last one was released on 12th February 2019. You may revert back to previous versions and see if there is any improvement.

You may try to decrease the first layer gap in Z-SUITE (distance between the raft and first layer of the model) - the model should adhere to the raft better then.

Also, what fan are you referring to? The HEPA Cover fan? I am not sure if I correctly understood your question.

Best regards,
Karolina


#13

How would I determine what the previous version was? I bought the unit in November of 2016. I don’t recall updating the software until the Z Suite prompted an update.

I will try decreasing the distance.

Yes, I was referring to the HEPA fan in the cover.


#14

Hi, I understood that you had not experienced similar issues until you updated Z-SUITE and firmware. I was hoping you remember with which versions you got best results (model sticking to the raft). You can try reverting to previous Z-SUITE and firmware version and run a test print to see if you get better results.

When it comes to the HEPA fan - if you see the models are prone to warping, you may set a minimum fan speed.