I've been having consistent problems with all of my prints (ABS) not sticking to the back left side of the table. They all seam to start fine but after an hour or so the start to peel up and deform the shape of the object during printing. I was told by a friend that I should enclose the sides of the printer, which I have done, but it has not seamed to make a difference. I've taken the perforated top off and cleaned it thoroughly in acetone and verified that the table is calibrated level. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
Actually just saw the Part Splitting post below mine and think this is the same thing. I'll just follow comments on that one and try some other materials and turn the fan to 0 as one person suggested. Thanks.
Also make yourself some ABS slurry or get a glue stick.
your table is not flat or its not level, the printer may say it is but I can guarantee its not I had the same problem I had to check it manually and it was low
look at the RAF when its first going down to see if it is the same thickness all the way across the bed if it’s thicker in one spot then you know the bed is low there,
You can also wipe the bed with ada juice I do that before evey big print.
Hope this helps
Gadgetstogo: Thanks for the feedback. I agree, I feel that the table is not level. I pulled the screen off the top and soaked it in Acetone to clear out any plastic residue that might be causing the issue and that helped some but its always a little high on the front right side. Can I ask the process you used to manually level the table, or can you point me in the right direction. Thank you in advance.
Today I stuck a heat lamp over the printer while it printed and that seamed to help some too. Not sure if there are any negatives to this approach or not.
Today I stuck a heat lamp over the printer while it printed and that seamed to help some too. Not sure if there are any negatives to this approach or not.
with the heat lamp, the printing was successful?
you tried to print with other materials?
Z-glass?
I use a glue stick as recommended by some folks and haven't had problems. As for manual leveling, I basically lifted the bed almost to the nozzle and put a sheet of paper on the bed. I try to get the nozzle to basically just barely "tug" on the paper. Do this on all four corners and the center and then do auto calibration and it worked immediately without any adjustments (color me surprised!)
Today I stuck a heat lamp over the printer while it printed and that seamed to help some too. Not sure if there are any negatives to this approach or not.
You don't want to get the print head hotter than 55-60ºC; there are electronics in there that may not like it.
The manual procedure described by Titaniumtommy is the way. Turn the printer off, manually raise the platform to the nozzle, move the head around by hand and adjust the screws until the nozzle is equidistant as possible from the bed at all points. Verify by looking at the thickness of the first raft layer as it goes down, and make fine adjustments if necessary.
My guess is it would be very difficult to get the inside temperature near the extruder stepper over 50C with just a heat lamp. Just make sure the lamp doesn't shine directly on the print head or, if you can't do that because you have a large print, just shield the extruder drive and the hot end heat sink from the lamp with some foil while leaving plenty of room between the foil and the print head for the air to circulate around the print head.
I have sometimes the same problem. Specially with larger objects. I dont know why. The printer and the table are new and less used. For better printing i have a special closed case that helps to hold the environmental temperature to 38°C. That helps a lot but not always.
I cant believe that the auto calibration is the mistake.That would be a defect of the printer, because this autocalibration is a important part of this printer and a reason for complaint. What happen if one side is to high? The result would be holes and lecky walls. If one side is to low, then you can hear the nozzle rabble the plate or extrem no material would be extrude. Why can that be a reason of warping? Can somebody explain?
I think problem is near that the holes in the plate must be complete free. I dont have experience with a glue stick, i clean the plate after using with aceton, but that alone is no formula to stop warping. What is with heating the chamber up to 70°C? I have read that will stop warping for ever, but Zortrax Workingtemperature is only about 35°C... Have anyone experience?
Thank you.
The problem is that your plate is too new. Roughen it up and get a glue stick. Done.
what type of glue stick
I use an Elmers All Purpose.
And when it gets a little caked on, just use water to soften and scrap and it usually is good for another print or two. lol
You'll see what I mean. I may use more than others do, but I haven't had a print lift up since I started using a little extra.
I use an Elmers All Purpose.
And when it gets a little caked on, just use water to soften and scrap and it usually is good for another print or two. lol
You'll see what I mean. I may use more than others do, but I haven't had a print lift up since I started using a little extra.
I go for weeks or months without actually washing in water; I just scrape between prints, brush off the dust, and apply more. You don't need to apply a "solid coat" - just scribble it on lightly in a grid pattern with strokes about 20 - 25mm apart.