Printing with Ultrat

Zortrax M200 General Discussion
#1

Has anyone been printing with the new Ultrat material? Do you have a preference for either one?

What are the best settings to use for each? What types of models are best? What are the differences?

In the short time I have been experimenting I am getting slightly better surface and details with ultrat, but at the cost of supports, etc being MUCH more difficult to get out (plus double the cost).. still not sure if its worth it

#2

Hi,

Advantages:

- Stronger than Z-ABS, sometimes almost as strong as elements produced with Injection Molding Technology
- Proper for fully usable elements that can work for long time with no sign of damage
- Less resilient which is useful in some uses
- A little glossy
- Allows printing smaller and more accurate models than with Z-ABS
- Elegant, architectural facture of ivory color
- Strong interlayer bonding
- Low level of deformation of large models - proper for large prints
 
Disadvantages:
- Low elasticity level (not suitable for susceptible elements)
- Higher (than Z-ABS) support structure hardness level – in some cases it can be more difficult to remove
- Z-ULTRAT is more difficult to mechanical treatment than Z-ABS. In some cases mechanical processing requires sandpaper and tools (included in the set that came with the printer)
#3

Hi Robert,

Thanks for the lowdown :)

SO - if I want to print large prints that are going to be treated (sanded, primed, painted, chromed, etc) which should I go for?

#4

Z-ULTRAT will still dissolve in acetone just like ABS, though it is kind of grainy, so keep your raft and supports for future use as glue. Robert isn't exaggerating when he says that supports are harder to remove. Just separating a print from the bed is harrowing. Interestingly, I had accidentally loaded the Z-Code for an ABS print with ULTRA-T loaded once and the print turned out just fine. It's probably best to use the correct settings, but know that your printer won't explode if you're careless.

To answer your question about a large treated part, I guess that would depend on its intended use. If it needs to be durable and detailed with tight tolerances, it may be best to use Z-ULTRAT. If not, save the money and use plain ol' ABS.

#5

I know Z-Ultrat works great for mechanical parts.. Pretty strong stuff. Does work with Acetone.. Has more of an ivory look to it. Might be great for Halloween skulls!!!

#6

Nice. In my experience I like much better the matt finish of ABS and the ease to treat it, but Ultrat tends to print 'better'. Not necessarily give more details, but fails less, doesnt need enclosure, etc. Im still running experiments to see which one works better for my intended purpose (purely aesthetic).

#7

Due to the cost, I print all of my first drafts with Z-ABS.. When I get the drawing right, I break out the Ultrat...

#8

Yes thats what im doing as well.. although its possible that for some applications ABS is better for the final piece. I think its easier to sand..