I have broken two off myblocks so i draw up new ones in solidworks. I added some material around countersiked holes and added one in the middle for the future if needed. Also M3 for belttensionscrews instead off M2, added thickness and width to that small “hinge”.
Mabey they wont hold up but just mounted one and printing now, time will tell. Mabey i mill this piece in aluminium later on if needed.
Looks GREAT!!!
Countersunk holes are to be avoided in plastics; molded , machined or printed. The head of the screw generates very large circumferential stresses that result in radial cracks. Where space permits, a counterbore can be used.
[quote name=Old Frog]Countersunk holes are to be avoided in plastics; molded , machined or printed. The head of the screw generates very large circumferential stresses that result in radial cracks. Where space permits, a counterbore can be used.
[/quote]
Thinking button head cap screws might be better?
[quote name=Old Frog]Countersunk holes are to be avoided in plastics; molded , machined or printed. The head of the screw generates very large circumferential stresses that result in radial cracks. Where space permits, a counterbore can be used.
[/quote]
I agree, just wanted something quick. Next time i will do without countersunk holes and use button head cap screws. If it breaks that is. 
Well let us know… I think you will be ok.
In Taulman 645 nylon it would almost certainly be strong enough. I haven’t tried it on the Zortrax, but it’s never caused a clog for me on my Ups. Colorfabb XT and Taulman T-Glase are also very strong, but they are a big clog concern for me and I wouldn’t risk them right now.
I used mine printed blocks few months without any issues 
I have now printed four of this piece and changed them all out. I am happy becuse now i got rid off my squeaking noice once again.
Love orange+black - Harley-Davidson colors 
[quote name=Julia Truchsess]Love orange+black - Harley-Davidson colors
[/quote]
Me too !!
Looks great Trhuster