Snapped nozzle on extruder

So after having extrusion issues I removed the stepper and went to remove the nozzle as well. Wouldn't you know it with just my luck it snapped off where the threads engage.

First, I know it needs to be hot for you to remove the nozzle, and it was. The threads didn't seem like it was unthreading well (I was turning it multipled times) and then it just snaps where the threads engage on the shoulder of the nozzle. 

So my problem is one, I need a new nozzle, unfortunately zortrax shipping will take forever, but I guess I have to wait. Do you all think I need an entire new hot end/does anyone have any suggestions to remove the still threaded portion from the hot end?

Kind of frustrated with all these issues on a brand new printer, but I am working through it :)

:huh: Hum...

it's difficult without a picture, may be with a tools like these with correct diameter (screw extractor)

2010-07-08_183015_Extracteurs_de_vis.jpg

Not the first I'v heard of this, seems too common. Maybe Zortrax should apply some anti-sieze compound when installing them in China.

Unfortuantely things have gone from bad to worse :(. Looks like I will be down for quite some time.

Julia I know you ordered a new hot end, does that include the nozzle, as well as the cables running all the way to the plug ins above the stepper? I have a stripped screw on the hot end (it was like this before I tried, i was able to remove one) and the cable will not come out now with the stripped screw, so I have to get a new cable to run from the plug in down.

You might be able to use a longer screw. I think the hole is deeper than the existing screw. I believe hot end comes with new nozzle. If you have an UP supplier near you, those nozzles will work as a spare.

Be sure to put Teflon tape on threads of nozzle.

Let me describe a little further

On instruction 6 here:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/gqv49phytv8y2iv/Hotend%20replacement%20v1.0.pdf

One of those screw heads is stripped, I am unable to remove with a 1.5mm, or even a 1/16" allen wrench. Unfortunately it was like this before I started messing with it, as I was able to remove one. It must have been stripped from the factory :(.

Kyle, have you ordered a new hot end from zortrax? I am wondering what all is included with it, as I need the whole hot end assembly, as well as the wires that run up to the plugs

Those screws are a 2.. Not 1.5. I have not ordered a hot end but some have. It comes with nozzle but no heater or temp sensor.(or wires)

Oops, I meant number 2 on the list, not sure what I was thinking. Well, that is going to be an issue then...

Unfortuantely things have gone from bad to worse :(. Looks like I will be down for quite some time.

Julia I know you ordered a new hot end, does that include the nozzle, as well as the cables running all the way to the plug ins above the stepper? I have a stripped screw on the hot end (it was like this before I tried, i was able to remove one) and the cable will not come out now with the stripped screw, so I have to get a new cable to run from the plug in down.

My hot end included block, feed tube, nozzle, heater, temperature sensor, and set screws. Heater and sensor have wires attached - long enough to run to the terminal block.

You should be able to get the set screw out with a small screw extractor, aka "easy-out".

Well there you have it.. I didn't think it included the heater and temp sensor.. That's good news!!

Excellent news, now if it could just arrive yesterday :).

I will be taking the hot end to my friends in a machine shop on monday, I am sure we can figure something out, but after accidentally cutting the wires that run to the terminal block, I was hoping for some good news!

Excellent news, now if it could just arrive yesterday :).

I will be taking the hot end to my friends in a machine shop on monday, I am sure we can figure something out, but after accidentally cutting the wires that run to the terminal block, I was hoping for some good news!

Note that extending the cut thermocouple wires may not work, because of the way thermocouples work: temperature is measured by the thermal gradient along the entire length of the wires, which are two specific dissimilar metals, not just at their junction inside the heater block. It may also be impossible to solder to the thermocouple wires, and if there's any mismatch (thermal, mechanical, or metallurgical) between the two junctions it will adversely affect the measurement.