Anyone have any recommendations on stabalizing the M200. I've noticed that for tall and slim prints the forces generated by the feeder are pretty intense and towards the top of the print, have led to print mis-registration. As the part is made and gets taller it begins to flex etc. I did a quick search earlier wondering if the design of the printer is ment to be fastened to a very sturdy workbench or whether it wants to have some flex. Any ideas on securing the M200 solidy to a fixed surface?
If the printer is in fact ideally ment to be solidy fastened; I wonder if some sort of clamp from the bottom with C clamps and lag bolts would work? I have a long print running right now or I would look at the underside and try to figure out how to fastend the chasis to somethign sturdy.
The reason I've been asking is this is the second print of this guy that about this height in the print volume, the hotend would start to grab at the layer printed before hand and visible shaking to the vertical model is pretty prevelent during the print. Happy so far but not quite there. I've printed this charachter 9" tall or 1:8 scale from theoritically 6' tall.
I'm trying to salvage this print as it's a 3D model from a fellow animator that I rebuilt and posed for their project. To print. at .09, and light fill it still takes a fairly long time. Really happy with this printer though but need to figure out how to print slim and tall objects like this or just realize It's a bad idea and break them up more.
Here are two shots of this model and for this go around I put a slice a bit late at the head and neck but about this layer is when the print started to wobble and I had to sand the neck, collar, and thumb down to get a flat surface.
Open to ideas on how to print this better next time and also how to fasten the two parts together well :)
P.S. I'm dreading trying to figure out how to get a filler at that seam if I can get the model back intact. Would a modelers filler like White Putty be necessary or can I use something I don't have to order and wait on like ABS slurry of some kind?
It looks much more like a linear shift than part wobble to me. Try the X-Y maintenance to see if that helps. And if it is part wobble, anchoring the machine will have little effect on it. The primary shear force is due to the small clearance and the viscosity of the melt causing the head to drag the part. I would suggest trying 0.14 and seeing if that helps (0.14 should still look great).
Man,too many gui's these days. Where under my settings do I check to recieve email notification that a post has been replied to? Thanks Labrat, I'll check the linear shift on XY and see if I need to adjust something. Not sure how to check this just yet but I'll search it out..
Sometimes the question is more important than the answer. Well the Answer to my question was obviously under "Notification settings" for my account.
Oh I think i bought at Walgreens some Salon Acetone remove to do the glue of the head, I'll post the monstrosity result when I am done attempting this :)
Man,too many gui's these days. Where under my settings do I check to recieve email notification that a post has been replied to? Thanks Labrat, I'll check the linear shift on XY and see if I need to adjust something. Not sure how to check this just yet but I'll search it out..
Sometimes the question is more important than the answer. Well the Answer to my question was obviously under "Notification settings" for my account.
Your best friend: http://support.zortrax.com/hc/en-us
Specifically: http://support.zortrax.com/hc/en-us/articles/201002262-XYZ-Axis-Maintenance
I've seen tall think parts printed without issue on a Zortrax just sitting on a regular table. I suspect something jammed the XY axis while your part was printing.
Acetone is a good solvent for ABS so you should be able to put a drop of acetone on the neck then just hold the head there for a few minutes until it starts to bond. Leave it undisturbed overnight and see if its strong enough for you. It could take a day or two for the solvent to fully evaporate to give the part full strength.
If the Acetone doesn't work then Methylene Chloride works very well for ABS, Acrylic and Polycarbonate. I think it would work on ZUTRAT and ZABS also. You should only use MC in a very well ventilated are and use nitrile gloves. Try Acetone first since its not nearly as much of a health hazard and its very easy to get.