According to the Zortrax blog, one of the improvements in 2.6.1 for M200+ is better bed adhesion. Very much true.
Under Z-Suite 2.6.0 i figured out a (more or less repeatable) ABS-juice treatment that served well for large Z-ABS prints:
- juice formula: 1g/25 ml acetone
application before each print: 10 drops of juice on a (car-waxing) cloth per 100 cm2 bed, quickly applied to each needed 100 cm2 bed “zone”.
With this procedure, and using the HEPA Cover on low fan speed, results were practically ideal with Z-ABS: no lifting of corners, raft detaches semi automatically (with some crackling sounds) upon reaching room temperature after printing.
In my latest 180x180 mm Z-ABS print (using Z-Suite 2.6.1) i used the above procedure which resulted in different behavior. Raft feels now "welded" to the bed. Removal requires a very sharp tool. Several of the spikes anchored in the perforation holes get broken/cut off and remain in the bed.
Reason for this change is apparently a more agressive first layer (maybe by lower layer height and/or greater plastic flow and/or higher temerature)
Some measurements on a raft by Z-Suite 2.6.0:
anchor spike depth (penetration of plastic into bed perforation): 0.4 mm
width of first-layer trace: 1.4 - 1.6 mm
Raft by Z-Suite 2.6.1:
anchor spike depth: 1.0 up to 1.4 mm
width of first-layer trace: 1.7 - 1.9 mm
The new adhesion strength is great but also requires a different way of preparing the bed. I think that ABS juice could almost be omitted now, replaced by only a wipe with pure acetone.
Is there a way to *reduce* adhesion? I didn't have adhesion problems before the update, and now the raft adheres too much to the bed. I often can't remove the raft without damaging the part I printed! Would greasing the bed make the raft stick less? Not sure, because it appears that it is mostly the spikes that cause the overly strong adhesion.
Intuitively i would say don't use grease on the bed. After all you want to keep some reliable adhesion.
The still remaining ABS film will wear off after some prints, and the adhesion should become normal again. You could always speed that up by disassembling the perforated plate and clean it with acetone.
I’m planning for each next print to just wipe the bed with acetone, and see how adhesion develops.
Intuitively i would say don't use grease on the bed. After all you want to keep some reliable adhesion.
The still remaining ABS film will wear off after some prints, and the adhesion should become normal again. You could always speed that up by disassembling the perforated plate and clean it with acetone.
I’m planning for each next print to just wipe the bed with acetone, and see how adhesion develops.
Ok. I'm waiting for an update then.
Anyway, please pass me the model. I'll see what we can do about it.
I agree the adhesion of the raft to the bed has increased. In addition to that, the adhesion between the support and model seems also increased, making it difficult to remove the support without damaging the model
Now, the separation resulting in warping happens between the raft and the support. It would be nice if this were make stronger to match the others. This is in ABS.
I'd like to see:
* Slightly less adhesion between model and support - on a large flat surface removal without damaging the model is nearly impossible. Ideally you want some control over this, as the requirements vary from model to model.
* Better adhesion of the raft to the support. This breaks away too easily allowing the model to warp. There is no reason for this to be weak as it never needs to be separated. It always breaks right at the bottom of the support, possibly doubling the width there and tapering out over a couple of layers would work. I would not want to see the adhesion of the support increased where it is sitting on the model - this is already a bit difficult to remove sometimes.