Just spent my first day printing with my new M200. What a fantastic user experience very unlike my first day with my UM2 almost 12 months ago. Everything works, it’s so well made, I couldn’t be happier.
Anyway the reason for my post… I’ve owned an Afinia (a fine little machine) and a UM2. I’ve printed only ABS a with both of these and they both had heated beds that went up to 105 degrees C of there abouts. The Afinia never quite hit it in reality but tried to get there. The UM2 would get to 105 or beyond no probs. You could easily boil water on it.
When I check the M200, the plate only reaches 70-73 degrees. I have a thermal imaging camera, so I can check all over the bed for heat variations and it all seems even. Also you can touch it with you hand and it’s not close to burning. I’ve just printed 3 relatively small parts (80mm diameter) using the standard z-abs that came with the printer. Parts came off perfectly. I’m just surprised by the low bed temperature compared with the Afinia and UM2.
Has anyone actually measured the temperature of the heated bed, or at least know what temperature it should be? I have a little warping of some parts that have printed warp free on both the UM2 and Afinia. The parts are not coming off the raft (until I what them to) and the raft is remaining attached to the heated bed until the print is finished. I'm using side covers and the entire printer is in a metal cabinet which maintains a temperature of about 33 degrees C.
Has anyone actually measured the temperature of the heated bed, or at least know what temperature it should be? I have a little warping of some parts that have printed warp free on both the UM2 and Afinia. The parts are not coming off the raft (until I what them to) and the raft is remaining attached to the heated bed until the print is finished. I'm using side covers and the entire printer is in a metal cabinet which maintains a temperature of about 33 degrees C.
http://forum.zortrax.com/index.php?/topic/483-tips-tricks-warping-issue-solution/
On UM you printed it from ABS or PLA?
Always ABS, on all my printers.
It will be cool if you share STL or any pictures, without this we talk about nothing 
Sure I'll get them on later this afternoon.
This is the part. I've drawn on how it warps because its printed in black and a little difficult to photograph well. As it happens this warp doesn't effect the functionality of the part so it's ok. I'm just really trying to find out if my heated bed is reaching its full temperature, because as previously stated I would expect it to be about 100 degrees C, but it's only 70.
This part is actually not that big and should not curl. To how many percent you set cooling fan?
I agree, its not that big and didn't curl on the UM2 or Afinia. Fan was on Auto.
Heated bed temperature on your printer is normal.
Try to print it with 20% fan again.
OK, thanks I'll give that a go. Is 20% enough to create effective infill material? I've seen 'use 20% fan' quite often given as advice. Are you better off using 20% fan on almost everything except really small things?
I do the majority of my printing with no fan. The less fan you use the better the layer bonding.
Even the small parts can go with no fan if you have enough parts loaded onto the bed.
The only time I need to use the fan is when I'm:
- bridging
- over-hanging
- printing a single small part
My suggestion for your part: (aside from a level / prepped bed)
- Enclosed sides. (even cardboard works, just don't block off the bottom vents)
- let the machine warm-up for 30 minutes.
- 0% fan
- Light infill (if strength allows)
- Don't turn the machine off until 30 min after printing.
- Don't pull the part from the machine until an hour of machine being off.
Thanks Guys. I've got it restarted on 20% for the first attempt with light infill. It only has a low strength requirement, so should be fine.
Thanks for the offer, but I've already got some.