First step is to make sure bed is level. I have lightly scuffed up my bed with a fine grit sandpaper to take the shine off the white part of perfboard. Also using an ABS/Acetone slurry wiped on to bed will help with adhesion.
I'm having the exact same issue. Where is the bed leveling procedure? I've tried using ABS/Acetone slurry. I've tried enclosing the printer. Parts will eventually fail and detach from the print bed. I've burned through a hole spool of ZABS with very little to show for it. Thanks.
Leveled the bed. My bed seems doesn't seem to be very flat. Center is bowed up. If I level the perimeter, the nozzle will touch the bed before I can center it. I usually only have warp out toward the edges. The OP pictures look worse then mine.
I'm trying a print now with using a glue stick, and that seems to holding better then abs/acetone, but not completely. Another crude option I've tried was carefully placed paint stir sticks and paper clips in desperation to save a big print.
I have experienced similar issues earlier. I believe this could be caused by small pieces of plastic which get stucked between the perforated alu plate and the heated bed. Maybe you should try to clean it following the instructions for the Quick Start Guide.
Leveled the bed. My bed seems doesn't seem to be very flat. Center is bowed up. If I level the perimeter, the nozzle will touch the bed before I can center it. I usually only have warp out toward the edges. The OP pictures look worse then mine.
I'm trying a print now with using a glue stick, and that seems to holding better then abs/acetone, but not completely. Another crude option I've tried was carefully placed paint stir sticks and paper clips in desperation to save a big print.
I hit the white part of my bed sandpaper.. Just enough to take the shine off. Use fine grit like 320. then wipe clean with Acetone. For Acetone ABS slurry I normally just take a paper towel with Acetone on it and rub it on an old piece of raft. Then smear the sticky on the bed. Just on the white part of bed though.
Cleaned out my printbed this morning after last print failed. I was surprised how much material had worked its way under the perf board. This was causing my bowing issue. I modified my model to have a larger raft as well. I guess we'll see in 20 hours... fingers crossed. Thanks for the help.
Thank you for al your advise, After manual level, and cleaning the build plate, I did an other test. The result is better, how ever, the deformation is there.
Then I try an other roll of ABS, same brand,but from a closed plastic bag, and guess what, no deformation. Is that possibility, that the ABS has moister inside, and
as it's cool down, shrink more, and pool itself up from build plate? Just a theory, don't know for sure
I had the same problems as everyone else who one a zortrax or similar printer base on the same technology.
The first prints just a waste of material with warping and layers not holding together..creating cracks as the piece cooled off.
I have to say tho that since I covered the printer with its transparent plastic bag , in order to keep a higher temp during the long printing times, that definitely avoided the layers not bonding together and also reduced somewhat the warping.
After wasting a full spool I was finally able to keep big parts stuck to the bed. I had to fully enclose the printer with foam and put a large bag over the top to keep in the heat. I'm attempting another print now with just the bag, but I don't know if it will retain enough heat for those big parts.
I hit the white part of my bed sandpaper.. Just enough to take the shine off. Use fine grit like 320. then wipe clean with Acetone. For Acetone ABS slurry I normally just take a paper towel with Acetone on it and rub it on an old piece of raft. Then smear the sticky on the bed. Just on the white part of bed though.
@Kyle: Do you scuff the bed with sandpaper every time you clean it? Or just one time?
Also, how often do you hit the bed with the slurry? Before every print, or just after cleaning?
