Reseller has to make some money...
I understand that, but they could have changed the design a little.. ;)
They buy them from Clark, with a nice laser-etched logo added. Probably not real happy that Clark undercuts them on ebay, but that's the free market.
Oh!!! I wasn't sure what was going on there. Glad he's getting paid for his design.. That clears it up.. Can't imagine they would do that, but some companies have..
Octave got the doors from me, i engraved their logo on them , and their doors are just a little bit thicker plastic than the ones I sell on eBay . thanks for looking out for me
Clark, are you working with Octave to produce your doors? If not, they have directly ripped you off - or maybe they're just buying yours and reselling?
http://www.octave.com/p1173433392/Octave-Door-Sets-for-Zortrax-M200-3D-Printer/product_info.html
It is always a good idea to ask both parties about something like this, I am always here to answer questions on Octave's behalf.
The doors are working great for us in the office and on Drew's machine at home. I had a 38 hour print complete with no warping, lift, or cracking thanks to the side panels.
-Michael
do you think that the small holes of the original door design would affect their "performance"? Clark's design is more draft-proof (patent pending :p) but do these small holes really matter? has anyone tried both?
do you think that the small holes of the original door design would affect their "performance"? Clark's design is more draft-proof (patent pending :p) but do these small holes really matter? has anyone tried both?
I have never tried them with holes in them but if you have holes in the side doors it will cool faster, without holes you will be much wormer inside the printer.
We conducted a preliminary tests of our all materials, none of them is not harmful to health when printing. At the moment, the laboratory prepares the official documentation of test results. I can tell you that the more toxic "pollutants" you breathe while walking around the city :)
The particles don't have to be toxic to be harmful. ABS printing raises ultra fine particle counts by orders of magnitude. These are the particles that can make it all the way to the extents of your lungs which makes them more of a concern. Just enclosing the printer should help a lot towards keeping UFP's down but a HEPA filter and a carbon filter isn't bad insurance IMO. Does Zortrax release their lab reports for air quality testing?
Here’s some food for thought… http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1352231013005086
For some reason that link doesn't seem to work. Google "ultrafine particle emmissions from 3D printers" and it should be one of the top links listed.
I don't know if this link will work but its a graph of particle counts with different kinds of filament being printed... http://ars.els-cdn.com/content/image/1-s2.0-S1352231013005086-gr2.jpg
Note... not are particles are equally unhealthy. I'm not an air quality expert but these kinds of things are usually considered safe until someone proves they cause problems. An ounce of prevention probably isn't a bad idea.
Why does the Zortrax M200 not come with a top cover in the first place?
I bought a printer that claims to be able to print in sizes up to 200x200mm – but big prints always loosen from the plate!
I made an "elegant" solution with a cardboard box, but I think Zortrak should provide a better solution.
Octave got the doors from me, i engraved their logo on them , and their doors are just a little bit thicker plastic than the ones I sell on eBay . thanks for looking out for me
Just ordered my fourth enclosure set from Clark on eBay. I love em and prefer the hinged design.
Hi Guys,
Great hood designs, I was looking for a similar solution. Would you consider producing a model that is compatible with the recirculating filtration design I am developing, http://www.3dprintclean.com/blog/2015/03/22/refining-the-recirculating-filtration-system-for-existing-enclosures-design-v6 ?
James
Hi, I’m thinking about to build my own top cover as I’ve had strong warping issues, even with side panels and Z-Ultrat.I couldn’t find any hints that this would solve warping issues. Has anybody else a top cover or a fully enclosed printer? Can you see major improvement regarding warping?
just wondering if you have put this top-cover through its paces yet?
I'm mostly curious what the max temp is before you start getting clogs.
Hi, I'm thinking about to build my own top cover as I've had strong warping issues, even with side panels and Z-Ultrat.I couldn't find any hints that this would solve warping issues. Has anybody else a top cover or a fully enclosed printer? Can you see major improvement regarding warping?
I've tried a top cover - a sheet of foamcore board with a hole cut out for the print head - it just slides around on top of the printer and if it's big enough it always seals the build chamber. I found that doing this, the print chamber would go up to 60 - 65ºC. There are a few problems:
- I had a fan failure - maybe coincidence or maybe the high temperature doesn't agree with the fans supplied by Zortrax.
- I had feed gear slippage due to filament softening.
- The thermocouple signal conditioning IC that sits right above the stepper motor is only designed to operate up to 60ºC ambient - above that and your extrusion temperature control may not work properly. When I mentioned this previously someone pooh-poohed it, however keep in mind that the stepper housing itself in an un-enclosed printer sits around 50ºC, so it doesn't take much to put its environs over 60º. We're not talking about damaging the IC, we're talking about the maximum ambient temp it's designed to operate in - it has an internal temperature sensor and if that's not working, the thermocouple signal cannot be translated accurately.
While warping may have been slightly reduced by the elevated temperature, the downsides were too much for me and I abandoned the top cover. Maybe a higher cover and a fan would keep the chamber in the 50-55º range which would be safer. My solution for warping now is to use materials that don't warp at all.
On my non-Zortrax printer I have only been able to make large ABS and PC parts warp and split-free by fully enclosing my printer. I have run it at 60C and even as high as 65C. I have not have any filament jamming, but I have two 24v fans on my extruder. I have not had stepper failures, but it sure seems like I am asking for some electronics to burn out if I keep on doing this. I have the temp controller but have not hooked it up. I should set it to vent at 50C.
I considered getting CPU coolers for my steppers:
But it is a lot of work and expense and plumbing.
In the end, Julia has the best idea - just use warp-free materials.
I've tried a top cover - a sheet of foamcore board with a hole cut out for the print head - it just slides around on top of the printer and if it's big enough it always seals the build chamber. I found that doing this, the print chamber would go up to 60 - 65ºC. There are a few problems:
- I had a fan failure - maybe coincidence or maybe the high temperature doesn't agree with the fans supplied by Zortrax.
- I had feed gear slippage due to filament softening.
- The thermocouple signal conditioning IC that sits right above the stepper motor is only designed to operate up to 60ºC ambient - above that and your extrusion temperature control may not work properly. When I mentioned this previously someone pooh-poohed it, however keep in mind that the stepper housing itself in an un-enclosed printer sits around 50ºC, so it doesn't take much to put its environs over 60º. We're not talking about damaging the IC, we're talking about the maximum ambient temp it's designed to operate in - it has an internal temperature sensor and if that's not working, the thermocouple signal cannot be translated accurately.
While warping may have been slightly reduced by the elevated temperature, the downsides were too much for me and I abandoned the top cover. Maybe a higher cover and a fan would keep the chamber in the 50-55º range which would be safer. My solution for warping now is to use materials that don't warp at all.
Hi Julia, thanks for the advise. But what material are you using for less warping on "box-like-shapes"? I thoght z-ultrat would be a nice alternative but with this I have still a lot of warping issues. Should I try it with Z-HIPS or non-zortrax material?
Did you ever "produce" these for sale? I'd like one.
Check eBay;I believe he is offering these for sale.
Thanks, in advance, for any info.
Very interesting thanks for sharing. :D
[color=#FFF0F5]ระบบที่รà¸à¸‡à¸£à¸±à¸šà¸à¸²à¸£à¸–่ายทà¸à¸”สดโดยตรงจาภคาสิโนจริงๆ ได้ที่นี่[/color] [url=https://www.royal-1688.net/%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%A51688%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%84%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%8C][color=#FFF0F5]รà¸à¸¢à¸±à¸¥1688à¸à¸à¸™à¹„ลน์[/color][/url]