I've been using a new M200 at work since July 1. The auto-calibration took some time to get a feel for how much to adjust the screws, but I got it tuned in after a few tries. Actually, doing a manual calibration first with a bubble level helped get it close.
Today, I updated the firmware to 0.0.8, and successfully ran the auto-calibration without turning a screw; however, the center measurement is 0.8, while the corners range between -0.1 to 0.1.
Is this typically what others see in their measurement results, or is the center measurement way off?
Do the deltas between the center and corners make it very likely to have issues with medium to large rafts warping off of the bed?
I've been using a new M200 at work since July 1. The auto-calibration took some time to get a feel for how much to adjust the screws, but I got it tuned in after a few tries. Actually, doing a manual calibration first with a bubble level helped get it close.
Today, I updated the firmware to 0.0.8, and successfully ran the auto-calibration without turning a screw; however, the center measurement is 0.8, while the corners range between -0.1 to 0.1.
Is this typically what others see in their measurement results, or is the center measurement way off?
Do the deltas between the center and corners make it very likely to have issues with medium to large rafts warping off of the bed?
The plastic in the holes has worked its way under the perf board in the center.. Remove board and scrape bottom with the scraper. Wipe heat bed clean and put board back on. Should help..
I agree with Kyle, I had been printing merrily along and then suddenly had strip-out feed issues and my son reminded me to remove and clean the perf board, he was right there was a build up of plastic under it causing a high spot in the middle.
Thanks, Kyle, for the advice. I cleaned it as you said, and it auto-calibrated with much better flatness (attached photo).
Other things I've learned through research here to maintain good print results:
Warp - Use Elmer's Washable School Glue (or Disappearing Purple) on the bed to help hold the rafts down
Warp - Distribute successive builds over different areas of the bed.
Feed - Periodically clean the servo motor's pinion gear if there is a lot of debris visible on it.
Feed - Make sure the servo motor is mounted as close as possible to the filament's roller bearing, so the filament is squeezed as much as possible.
Feed - Make sure there are no very loose coils coming off the filament spool, so the coil doesn't get trapped between the spool and the printer. If it gets trapped, the filament can tightly wind around the spool support, stopping the feed after the pinion gear tears up the filament.
Yeah, basically all of the above, and make sure to clean the perfboard contact pads and nozzle thoroughly with acetone as well for the best result.
I try to leave it alone unless I notice uneven or thin application of the first layer.
If you're going to run the auto calibration, ALWAYS take the board off and clean it thoroughly first and start the test with the screws wound right in and then backed off a quarter turn.
A perfect contact is when the nozzle touches the perfboard contact ever so lightly before lifting again.
If it crashes or even pushes a bit hard it's worth stopping, cleaning and starting again.