I am failing to print a narrow tall LONG object that prints diagonally across the M200 halfway into 2 opposing Silver corners.
Using ABS, ABS-Juice, enclosed cabinet, etc the units are warping on the contact pads.... even if I try to pause for awhile after the raft is done printing...
So I need to switch to z-Ultrat
The model was to be glued / seam filled with Acetone and then Acetone vapor Smoothed.
What solvent is effective on Ultrat?
-For Gluing
-For Seam Filling
-For Smoothing
Thank you
Hello Chris, ABS mix (ABS + Acetone) or UltratT mix, with different viscosities are excellent for your needs. Thinner for gluing, quite thick for seam filling. Be aware if you apply a lot of ABS mix, the acetone gases might melt the infill mesh. Happened to me once or twice, but not a big problem. Don't expect wonders regarding warping with Z-Ultra compared to Z-ABS!
Best of luck!
Regards
John
Thanks John!
I thought Ultrat was resistant to Acetone... good to hear that is not the case :)
If Ultrat warps as well, use z-HIPS?
Does HIPS + D-Limonene Citrus Solvent work just like ABS/ULTRAT + Acetone?
Should the nozzle should be soaked in Acetone overnight before switching to HIPs from ABS/ULTRAT?
Tried Z-Hips on some larger parts, they warped just as much as Z-ABS.....So I shifted back to Z-ABS, didn't see the point. I have 10 or so HIPS rolls lying around, can't be bothered to use them. I only use ABS, cheap and easy to glue and good looking models. Only tried citrus for HIPS on the surface, it wasn't as effective as acetone. No need to do anything with the nozzle, just change the material.
UltraT has a low percentage of PC in its composition (around 2%? :)) ). So the difference is not huge compared to Z-ABS.
I am using Dimafix and it works pretty well with large prints and ULTRAT. But not in all cases...
Failed to print sans warp...
Sliced model into thirds, incorporating some small alignment tabs.
ALL ok again