Does anyone out there use a glass hotbed with their M200?
If so, how do you like it?
What do you use to increase the adhesion (tape, hairspray, glue, etc)?
How did you attach the glass hotbed to the M200?
Easy answer: you can't. No metal contacts for calibration procedure.
It would be possible if Zortrax built a special glass bed with metal contacts in the correct locations for calibration, but I doubt they would do that.
Would it be possible with adhesive sheets "BUILDTAK"?
They should be able to stick to the aluminum plate.
The BUILDTAK is heat resistant.
@post355, why would you like to do that?
I've just started with 3D printing, but I've been recommended glass hotbeds from several people. People seem to say it's easier to clean, take components off, and it lasts longer.
But thanks, just curious
Printing on a glass surface is an awfull piece of sh***t... !
I had many problems with adhesion on the glass bed of my previous Ultimaker. The result is highly random, depending on room T°, glass cleanning, materials parameters settings, and many, many parameters. :(
Worst of it, you need to use some "tricks" to make it glue on the bed wihch are really not usefull... and make the contact surface of your part randomly bad.
The only material that glues easily on glass bed is PLA... a plastic with no interest as it is brittle, and does not resist to common summer T° (it soften over 35-40°C) ;)
I've just started with 3D printing, but I've been recommended glass hotbeds from several people. People seem to say it's easier to clean, take components off, and it lasts longer.
They don't have Zortrax printer :)
I printed successfully on glass with my Ultimaker 2 with ABS all the time. That’s all I ever printed on my UM2. I used frosted glass which gave a fantastic surface finish. Never had harping problems. The bed temperature was higher though. Printing on glass does have some benefits, but there are also issues. On balance, for the sort of printing I do, printing on perf board using a raft gives a more reliable and accurate result.
It's not the magic of glass so much as the ability to dispense with a raft for certain types of prints. Without the ability to turn off the raft, printing on glass would be pointless.
I’d expect them to start selling glass beds when Z-Flex comes out.
I'd expect them to start selling glass beds when Z-Flex comes out.
The glass bed release will coincide with wifi.
I printed successfully on glass with my Ultimaker 2 with ABS all the time. That's all I ever printed on my UM2. I used frosted glass which gave a fantastic surface finish. Never had harping problems. The bed temperature was higher though. Printing on glass does have some benefits, but there are also issues. On balance, for the sort of printing I do, printing on perf board using a raft gives a more reliable and accurate result.
To avoid any harping problems I suggest switching to a Theremin.
I could also use a glass bed for some specific prints IF raft could be disabled.
Over 50% of my prints could benefit from a nice 1st layer finish.
My proposal to Zortrax is not glass but just a PCB without holes, with the whole surface tinned and the ability to disable raft in Zsuite.
I would be very happy with this option!
PS: I had no problems printing a lot of materials on a glass bed on other printers. Everything sticks perfect just by adjusting temperature, no need for voodoo and special solutions.
To avoid any harping problems I suggest switching to a Theremin.
Or find a different wife/girl friend.
This question was already asked but not answered by a Z-Member. Can an overlay adhesive be used on the plate? BuildTak - a pre-adhesive PEI, PEI, Kapton tape, etc. Other printer groups swear by the BuildTak.
Thanks.
This question was already asked but not answered by a Z-Member. Can an overlay adhesive be used on the plate? BuildTak - a pre-adhesive PEI, PEI, Kapton tape, etc. Other printer groups swear by the BuildTak.
Thanks.
I would say yes as long as you cut a hole in the tape where the tip sensors the bed, give it a try nothing ventured nothing gained.
I would say yes as long as you cut a hole in the tape where the tip sensors the bed, give it a try nothing ventured nothing gained.
Possible, but a shim would most likely be needed. The first layer prints pretty thin as it is, so if you put tape down and just cut a hole, the nozzle would have almost zero clearance with the tape and is almost guaranteed to clog.
A couple layers of folded aluminum foil could probably work decently as a shim.
*Personal Opinion bandwagon*
While I like the easily removed raft and support I would like the option of having a glass build plate and ability to turn off raft.
-Michael
*Personal Opinion bandwagon*
While I like the easily removed raft and support I would like the option of having a glass build plate and ability to turn off raft.
-Michael
And big problems with warping ? :)