Same pb as many of us when trying to print a large thin part : The raft is perfectly stuck on the bed plate (thanks' to ABS juce) BUT the part itself and mostly the supports ripped off, even after few time print (2 or 3 hours over 8).
I have no panels, but the room T° is around 24°C.
ABS - 0,14mm - full infill ("solid")
Supports "light".
top & bottom surfaces : 6 layers
May "normal" supports improve the print stuck on raft ?
I need a material with high mechanical properties, so Z-ABS & Z-Ultrat seems the only ones usable.
The part will also be long time exposed to UV rays so Z-Hips is not suitable.
I do wonder how to solve this pb of wrapping as I also have a gear box case to print which will take +30h... :unsure: .
I will try in Z-Ultrat, but I am not really confident with the result...
Hello Zeb, what I would do is to make a "sacrificial" ring around the part about 1mm thick (so it`s easy to remove afterwards). As the ring is thin, it won`t warp as much and will help to hold the part down as there is a large area binding to the raft via the support structure. I did something similar, it worked quite well. It will warp a little, but that is unavoidable due to the nature of the material.
... This is a good idea... but I see a pb with this method: when I will remove/cut the sacrificial ring from the part I will obtain a non consistent surface. I mean as the solid infill is not 100% full, my part will show some opening which are not waterproof. I also worry about strength of the part in this area..
Maybe some Acetone and/or ABS juice can solve these pb.
Due to the thickness of the sacrificial plate (0.5-1mm), I think it will be full infill no matter if you select light infill in Z-Suite. The "skin" of the part would not open up even if you cut away the ring. You could test it, make a small model with a ring and section it, then you would see what it looks like! I didn't see an opening in my part, but must admit I wasn't looking very carefully either!
Hi Motordude thank you for your valuable info !!!!
I have the same issue as described above.
I have build my own heating chamber (600x800x1200mm) from an old dining room cabinet.
It does have a electrical heater and an (natural) air inlet with filter and a ventilator with exhaust to cool down the chamber if necessary.
And a fire protection unit.
The temperature inside is around 35°C. Until now I have never used the heating and ventilator because it only starts above 40°C
So all for nothing I would say - but sometimes I use the spare place in the cabinet to let dry fresh painted parts (There is mostly enough place :) )
But what's the ideal temp for printing ABS ? Or should I say it different what's the temperature inside when printing ABS with the panels.
Because I think the filters let to much air in/out the chamber
Hello Dirk, I don't worry to much about the temperature. I have a large cardbordbox that I keep the printer inside, and some cardboard doors fixed with tape for easy access to the printer. It looks ridiculous, but it works. It holds the heat quite well, and warping is less that leaving it in free air. Don't expect miracles, ABS will warp anyway due to the nature of the material!
