yes again 'Warping'

I sent two images of the big object (iPad-mini3 sun-shield). You can see no warping at the edges.1907

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The other pictures are here. This time, material is z-ultrat.

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The Z-Ultrat print is just for babies, why should that ever warp? Make it 20 or more layers higher and show again.  :ph34r:

The sunshield is big, but the edges have some relief by the areas on the hull that move the hull to inside and out again.

If that hull is even support then talking about a baby print again! And one cannot see how the hull is constructed (how big are the walls and what infill is used, so much factors about warping, there are even more...).

Try to print such objects and you learn some lessons about warping, print it without warping and you're my hero:

I have the perf. Board bonded with a thin layer of silicone adhesive (+300°C) centrally 10x10cm and then pressed overnight. I have only slightly tightened the screws. Thus, the perf. Board extend outwardly through the heating and makes no dome in the middle. After calibration, I have the following values: rear, left, right 0.0 to +0.1, in the middle of 0.0, in front 0.0 or +0.1.

 
Before the change:
I have performed a calibration immediately after a long print job (28h) and the following values obtained: Front and rear +0.3 and +0.7 in the center.

Well done, go forward.

0.1 mm is enough. I'll print the object of Z-Renegade this evening and send the pictures of test sample. I'll explain, clearly, how to do it with the photos if I can print no warped. 

I printed a box of the ramps 1.4. You could see below. No warping was occurred at the bottom. I used Z-ABS come with the machine. Other specifications were given below.

Warping is always possible. However, my technique minimizes the warping.

Layer thickness:0.19mm

Speed: Normal

Infill:Solid

Support angle:20 and support lite was checked.

Fan speed:20%

Print time: 13h5m

Filament usage:43.93m(105g)

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Woow that's very impressive! No reason to ignore this method and go for it. 

Thanks for sharing.Come back later with my results.

I printed a box of the ramps 1.4. You could see below. No warping was occurred at the bottom. I used Z-ABS come with the machine. Other specifications were given below.

Warping is always possible. However, my technique minimizes the warping.

Nice little box, why not try a more adult box?

As everybody could see (if looking at it) the box on my pic was something completely different that is shown on your print results.

I attached the STL...

Sorry, I printed a small box (120x100x90mm) because my filaments are in critical stock. Please, print your box, yourself.

Sorry, I printed a small box (120x100x90mm) because my filaments are in critical stock. Please, print your box, yourself.

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Your answer is even better than I expected it!

:D Send a lid of your box. Maybe use it, somewhere. However, I should buy the Z-ABS. As well, your print takes 17 hours. 

Other pictures of the completed box of ramps 1.4 are below. Definitely, this success belongs to Zortrax Company. I have only added a part of small tape  :D .

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:D Send a lid of your box. Maybe use it, somewhere. However, I should buy the Z-ABS. As well, your print takes 17 hours. 

I would have to create a neutral one (without the holes for components) and I will do right after you posted the pics from the nice printout of the box together with the disclosure of your secret tips how you did it without warping. Promise!

There is no secret. I have written everything about it above, and it is real. I have accepted that you could see a little warping at the corner when print a big object. However, my technique is better, simpler and cheaper than others. Besides, it helps to calibration.

And, Yes, you must test it.

your explanations do not seem to convince everyone.

Can you explain again and show pictures of your method?

it would be great !

Can we please stop calling this just warping, all ABS plastics shrink as it cools and every layer begins this process, all sharp corners are focal points and will display some amount of shrinkage induced layer de-lamination. I’ve heard from plastic injection molding experts a 4% could be considered average and infill amounts will increase the likelyhood.

Even with the best adhesion of the raft to the build plate if the first part layers are created with the intention of being easily removed then the shrinkage can have an opportunity to separate the part from the raft causing the part to be knocked from the build plate or a temporary skipping of a belt, either can the create “birds nest”.

your explanations do not seem to convince everyone.

Can you explain again and show pictures of your method?

it would be great !

Not convinced?  ;)

Why should we ask for explanations?

He printed an object that should print on any M200 that is at basic leveling and maintenance without any problem at all.

Maybe thinks he did a hero thing because of trying the same on his UM before !?  :ph34r:

Can we please stop calling this just warping, all ABS plastics shrink as it cools and every layer begins this process, all sharp corners are focal points and will display some amount of shrinkage induced layer de-lamination. I've heard from plastic injection molding experts a 4% could be considered average and infill amounts will increase the likelyhood.

Well, personally I can but I will not.  :ph34r:

Just because we do discuss about an object lifting off the bed here. And that's warping. I was even told before that warping and shrinking is the same, but even as a non native language speaker (and because being stubborn) I would tell that warping is related to the printing object and one of it's major causes is shrinking wich is related to the filament. And alltough shrinking cannot be prevented at all, it can be dealt with (when not dealing with it the warping is bigger and we also have to talk about splitting).

But here we talk about warping, I think.  :D

Even with the best adhesion of the raft to the build plate if the first part layers are created with the intention of being easily removed then the shrinkage can have an opportunity to separate the part from the raft causing the part to be knocked from the build plate or a temporary skipping of a belt, either can the create "birds nest".

wrong thread?